time for a small update again guys, as above, my clutch was still playing up and sticking, it did it pretty bad on the way home yesterday so i had a mate pick up a new slave for me while i was still on the way home. Ended up getting home and replaced it pretty quickly.

When bleeding these, because the slave is angled upwards and the bleed nipple is below this point, air normally gets trapped pretty easily in the slave. I read online about using a clamp to hold the slave shut, the space was limited so i made up a brace to hold the slave shut.

come to think of it, i could have probably just left it unbolted and clamped it shut but then i wouldnt be able to gauge if the pedal felt normal easily, but anyway, below is the brace; pretty much, it goes over the front pitch mount bolt and i just used another nut to hold it in place, then with a bolt and 2 nuts, i made an adjustable stopper to hold the clutch fork against the compressed slave , this worked pretty bloody well and the clutch feels great.





This morning on the way to work i gave it a bit and didn't feel any sticking, i was pretty rough on it too. about 5 minutes from work the pedal started feeling strange, this time it felt different, like the throwout bearing or fork was stuffed ... eugh brain went in to melt down, did it at any speed, any gear in neutral etc, while i was having a moment, i took my foot off the accelerator and let it rest on the carpet, pressed the clutch a few times and felt the floor mat moving .. turns out the pedal was catching on the floor mat haha. so id say my problem was the clutch slave all along, glad i changed the master and put new fluid in the system though, the master had a leak anyway

TLDR: changed clutch slave, resolved sticking issue, thought issue came back, turns out this time the pedal was catching on the carpet.

I also had time yesterday to put the modified stock air ram and ducting in place, this is as factory as it will get without the resonator attached, its functional and does the job.



Thats all for now! I will keep an eye on how the pedal feels and if it sticks again

Parts Parts and Parts!!!

Time for another update on GCEBE

I ended up getting a bunch of subaru genuine parts from partsouq and amayama for when i do the turbo swap to go along with my braided lines for the turbo. Replacement header tank to under manifold coolant pipe, coolant return, coolant feed and oil drain.










Actual pic of the braided lines i purchased - note these just replace the hard lines, the hard lines break pretty easy when trying to move them out of the way to remove a turbo apparently so i have preempted this and will be chucking these in soon enough.



I also changed out the exhaust gaskets as they were munched, sounds much better but still have a pesky leak i am trying to work out, pretty sure its the chineese semi unequal headers that the previous owner installed. and with that .. comes a set of Prospeed Racing UEL Headers, i have had my eye on these for a bloody long time and i finally managed to save a little bit last pay run and buy them. Troy was VERY helpful, and delivery was one business day from ordering. The quality is AMAZING! the welds are nice and clean, thick wall stainless steel all around with some beefy AF flanges on both the headers and the up pipe.

Obligatory unboxing shot of the headers only - i will upload a pic of the up pipe when i get a chance.



I dont want to heat wrap these because when heat wrap gets oil on it, it pretty much becomes a candle wick, i wanted to ceramic coat them as well but the only place i could find in sydney was in moorebank and wanted something like $300 to get them done , if anyone knows any good ceramic coating companies in sydney let me know!

Only have a fuel pump, injectors, top mount and tune left!!!!

thats all for now.

Mmmmm shiny.
Nice update n parts. I have had a number of subys (plus other cars) with heat wrapped headers (dump pipes) n never had issues. It's a good idea to do it both for performance n protecting surrounding parts.....just don't spill oil on it, I don't even know how u would spill oil on them?

haha thanks Wizz! I was worried that maybe one day the turbo drain or others may split and end up leaking all over it

Naaaaa now that u have replaced them with new u will be fine. The only negative to wrapping is it isn't the most fun job....but it is rewarding seeing them finished.

I havent replaced them yet but will

Im still super paranoid, i think im just going to get them ceramic coated when i can get time off to do it

If you're concerned about oil spills leading to flames, wrap the wrapped headers in very thin alum sheet or very thick alfoil, then tie that with wire. No oil is getting through that.

Thanks Andrew,

I read that in a few places, i may give it a go .. hmmm i'll decide soon !

Regarding header wrap, back in the day I ran some oil cooler lines too close to my wrapped headers and had a hose split......at 130 km/h two thirds of the way from Katherine to Darwin..

There were flames but only very small ones once I was stopped and the engine was off. No need for the fire extinguisher, just a rag in a gloved hand to snuff them out. No real issues, though I was probably a bit lucky.

**** thats pretty lucky! ive heard heaps of stories of oil soaking into the headers and turning into a candle!


Time for an update


I noticed the gearbox getting notchy and sometimes a little noisy getting into third, every little noise every shift, every bump etc makes me think something is going wrong (im paranoid my car is out to destroy my bank account) - i ended up changing the gearbox fluid with penrite pro gear 75-90 which was recommended by all drive subaroo (company that did the box), and also put in some smooth shift, feels much better now, pretty darn smooth, third gear is still a little notchy but i guess its just a subaru thing, if im shifting quickly into third its rough but when i shift with a decent speed its fine. i was also having issues with my clutch pedal, when shifting between gears, if im slow off the clutch i can feel like a little bump in the clutch pedal only sometimes happening when i disengage only, and when the pedal is nearly fully down - probably about 5% of my total driving time this happens - its not harsh but it still worried me so i ended up bleeding the system again and also moved the clutch fork back and forth a bit and that issue seems to be fixed, i was worried it was the TOB getting stuck, but yeah seems ok now. i also greased up the clutch pedal and i may just get some lithium spray and get the pedal assembly with it incase i missed any areas, then test. I also picked up a pneumatic bleeder which hooks up to a compressor - absolute piece of crap, does not have much pressure at all and is very fiddly to get working correctly.

below are a few pics of the process, i know the top mount doesnt need to come out to do the fluid, i just wanted to check everything while i was waiting for the gearbox levels to settle so off it came. Ive worked pulling off the top mount down to a fine art haha.











Old fluid



Thats it for now, im hoping to get the headers ceramic coated soon so i will have some pics of that install in the next month or so