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 Post subject: Re: Help in regards to 6 speen conversion
PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 3:56 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17776
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
Im of the opinion its best to do everything at once. But thats how i roll.
Your gonna spend like 3k+ just getting the box and other basic parts needed to do just the 6spd swap. Getting the crossmembers and such extra is not a massive outlay on top of the base cost of conversion. And is easy to do while its all apart.

Steering rack is nice if you find a quick rack. And would be a worth wile addition. But that has its own complications on the SF due to the splines of the rack and column. Subaru changed the spline profile and this makes things messy on the SF.

Front arms have a different front joint. So you could press out the bearing or onsell the arms and get new ones. I think there is a track increase with the GD.

The GD crossmember has much more metal in it and additional bracing that your original wont have. But its not needed. An there is the spacers that sit between the crossmember and chassis to consider.

If your doing the r180 rear end then your gonna be getting the rear hubs anyways. (And brakes, rotors and shafts etc.) So doing the 5x4.5 hubs aswell is an added option. But you will need new rims. You will need the front hubs. And if you do change the fronts then the strut foot where it meets the front upright wont fit. If you have coilovers with adjustable strut feet then you can just unscrew the feet and get the t
right ones. If standard struts or basic coilovers then your gonna need to do something there. So it adds up pretty fast for a full conversion.

I guess you gotta wiegh up what priorities you have and what you can live without.

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 Post subject: Re: Help in regards to 6 speen conversion
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 10:06 am 
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Vehicle: 1999 GT Black/Grey

Posts: 221
Location: Australia
Bram wrote:
Im of the opinion its best to do everything at once. But thats how i roll.
Your gonna spend like 3k+ just getting the box and other basic parts needed to do just the 6spd swap. Getting the crossmembers and such extra is not a massive outlay on top of the base cost of conversion. And is easy to do while its all apart.

Steering rack is nice if you find a quick rack. And would be a worth wile addition. But that has its own complications on the SF due to the splines of the rack and column. Subaru changed the spline profile and this makes things messy on the SF.

Front arms have a different front joint. So you could press out the bearing or onsell the arms and get new ones. I think there is a track increase with the GD.

The GD crossmember has much more metal in it and additional bracing that your original wont have. But its not needed. An there is the spacers that sit between the crossmember and chassis to consider.

If your doing the r180 rear end then your gonna be getting the rear hubs anyways. (And brakes, rotors and shafts etc.) So doing the 5x4.5 hubs aswell is an added option. But you will need new rims. You will need the front hubs. And if you do change the fronts then the strut foot where it meets the front upright wont fit. If you have coilovers with adjustable strut feet then you can just unscrew the feet and get the t
right ones. If standard struts or basic coilovers then your gonna need to do something there. So it adds up pretty fast for a full conversion.

I guess you gotta wiegh up what priorities you have and what you can live without.


Really appreciate all this info mate been reading alot and have learnt quite abit in the process.

Is the rear subframe the same as the crossmember? Been googling around and all the picture that come up look the same. If not is it worth changing out the rear subframe for the GD and if not I take it all components will fit on the SF subframe. Basically will the SF subframe suffice?

Also if i choose do go down the route of the spacer delete do i think have to change all suspension components to GD? (sway bar mounts, sway bars, latereral links, trailing links etc.)

Do i need the GD rear diff carrier crossmember and what is it?

Again thanks in advanced to all who have put there 2 cents in :drinks:


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 Post subject: Re: Help in regards to 6 speen conversion
PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 8:11 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17776
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
jaylyin wrote:
Bram wrote:
Im of the opinion its best to do everything at once. But thats how i roll.
Your gonna spend like 3k+ just getting the box and other basic parts needed to do just the 6spd swap. Getting the crossmembers and such extra is not a massive outlay on top of the base cost of conversion. And is easy to do while its all apart.

Steering rack is nice if you find a quick rack. And would be a worth wile addition. But that has its own complications on the SF due to the splines of the rack and column. Subaru changed the spline profile and this makes things messy on the SF.

Front arms have a different front joint. So you could press out the bearing or onsell the arms and get new ones. I think there is a track increase with the GD.

The GD crossmember has much more metal in it and additional bracing that your original wont have. But its not needed. An there is the spacers that sit between the crossmember and chassis to consider.

If your doing the r180 rear end then your gonna be getting the rear hubs anyways. (And brakes, rotors and shafts etc.) So doing the 5x4.5 hubs aswell is an added option. But you will need new rims. You will need the front hubs. And if you do change the fronts then the strut foot where it meets the front upright wont fit. If you have coilovers with adjustable strut feet then you can just unscrew the feet and get the t
right ones. If standard struts or basic coilovers then your gonna need to do something there. So it adds up pretty fast for a full conversion.

I guess you gotta wiegh up what priorities you have and what you can live without.


Really appreciate all this info mate been reading alot and have learnt quite abit in the process.

Is the rear subframe the same as the crossmember? Been googling around and all the picture that come up look the same. If not is it worth changing out the rear subframe for the GD and if not I take it all components will fit on the SF subframe. Basically will the SF subframe suffice?

Also if i choose do go down the route of the spacer delete do i think have to change all suspension components to GD? (sway bar mounts, sway bars, latereral links, trailing links etc.)

Do i need the GD rear diff carrier crossmember and what is it?

Again thanks in advanced to all who have put there 2 cents in :drinks:

Yeah. I guess the rear crossmember and subframe are the same bit. I think crossmember is the more correct technical term. I sometimes accidentally use the wrong terminology.

There are basically 2 different structures at the rear of the vehicle. The rear crossmember is the rearmost structure. It mounts the lateral arms to the body shell. It also mounts the rear part of the rear diff. There are many advantages for a forester to change this out. Stronger design. Solid mounts to the body shell. Lowered geometry. Better designed mounting mechanism for the rear diff.

The other structure is commonly called the diff outrigger. (Im not 100% sure if that is technical name, or just a common name.) But its job is to hold the rear diff. It is a large "T" shaped frame. It connects to the snout of the rear diff to the body shell. This i dont believe is critical to swap on an SF. Although i believe if doing a de-lift, then doing this could be a good idea to match it with the rest of the de-lift, just incase there is a geometry/hieght difference with it. I havent got any conclusive evidence if the hieght/geometry of this part changed with the SF forester. (Its design makes measuring any hieght differences very difficult.) If it did change the mounting hieght of the diff, and you did swap the rear crossmember, there could be potential that the diff be on a slight angle due to the mis-match. But i dont think that is the case. On an SG, i would consider swapping this part a MUST. The SG forester item is very wobbly and made of multiple components and rubber bushings. And that alone is good reason to convert. Regardless of if it changes the hieght of the rear diff or not.

As ive said numerous times before, i believe if you plan on doing a de-lift while doing a gearbox conversion, then i reckon you should do everything. I dont think doing half and half ever gives good results. Likewise - if you are doing a gearbox conversion, but dont want the added complexity of the de-lift, then same principle, i believe in keeping everything as original hieght/geometry to the vehicle where possible. NO HALF N HALFS. The associated parts required to do a de-lift while doing a gearbox swap are relatively cheap compared to the gearbox/diffs themselves. They aint free, but in the scheme of things, pretty cheap. And you may even be able to do a package deal from a parts dissmantler or commision a cut plus the extras from a importer that has everything you need in one purchase. And the labour to swap them over is not massive, IF your already swapping over the gearbox, rear diff and hubs/knuckles in the gearbox conversion.

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Last edited by Bram on Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:21 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Help in regards to 6 speen conversion
PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:13 am 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17776
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
jaylyin wrote:

Also if i choose do go down the route of the spacer delete do i think have to change all suspension components to GD? (sway bar mounts, sway bars, latereral links, trailing links etc.)

Again thanks in advanced to all who have put there 2 cents in :drinks:

If you do the spacer delete, you should be ok to re-use your existing suspension parts :


Front control arms. (Remember front joint is different size on SF/GC vs GD/SG, will need to match crossmembers to arms, or press bushs /out/in to match. You mentioned GC alloy arms. If going GD front crossmember, bear in mind the later model GD, around 05 onwards changed steering rack design aswell.)

Lateral arms, trailing arms, swaybar, swaybar links should be ok. (The swaybar may just begin to foul on the spare wheel well. The forester has larger diameter tyres than the WRX, and as such it has a slightly larger spare wheel well. When i did my de-lift on my SG, the Whiteline SG specific 22mm swaybar began to foul on my spare wheel well. Unsure if on SF or if only with aftermarket swaybars.)

You *could* re-use your struts. But then what is the point of a de-lift if keeping standard suspension hieght.

What you will need to get to do the de-lift is the trailing arm mounts, swaybar mounts, and crossmembers as discussed. And then remove the actual spacer blocks at the front.



If you do start changing control arms or lateral links, you may then also neeed to change sway bars and swaybar links, depending on what you change to.

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