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 Post subject: DIY: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 9:58 am 
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I Say: Fozzy fozzy fozzy, oi oi oi!
Vehicle: 2011 Forester S-Edition WRB

Posts: 1254
Location: 3015
Status: In progress (sections 0-5 completed)

Here are the DIY instructions to replace your factory headunit with another type of headunit. This guide is specifically for replacing the double-DIN Nav unit (Kenwood FXDB09MF2). The headunit I swapped in was an Auto Pumpkin 7” model, which uses an ISO harness pinout. The type of harness varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Generally the bigger guys (Alpine, Kenwood etc) have their own specific harness pinouts, while the Chinese head units all use ISO. This guide will focus on the ISO-type harness, but the instructions will be similar for other manufacturers (as long as you secure the correct harness).

0 - Index
1 – What do I need
2 – Factory Headunit Overview
3 – Replacement Headunit Overview
4 – Test the New Unit
5 – Prepare the Harness
6 – Uninstall Factory Unit
7 – Install New Unit
8 – Test/configure

1 – What Do I Need
The following are the required pieces you need to install an ISO-style headunit into the Subie:

1.0) The Mandatory:
- Subaru with the Kenwood Double DIN Nav unit
- New headunit with an ISO harness pinout - I used the AutoPumpkin 7" model (~AUD$350)
http://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin-7-10 ... amera.html

1.1) Tools:
- Auto Electrical crimp tool and pieces - https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-cr ... s/p/TH1848 (AUD$15)
- Phillips & Flathead screwdrivers
- Side cutters
- Needle-nose pliers
- Black electrical tape
- Small torch (eg. LED) and magnetic screw retrieval rod (in case you drop any behind the dash)
- Patience :)

1.2) Converters/connectors/harnesses/extras etc:
a) The main harness (model # CTSSU003.2). This harness converts from ISO (new chinese headunit) to factory Subaru Nav plugs (14pin + 24pin). This also includes the SWC (Steering Wheel Control) module - this allows you to reprogram your steering wheel buttons to the new headunit. The link below was where I originally bought it, but you can just search eBay for CTSSU003.2
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/401162214688 (~AUD$78)

b) Radio Antenna harness. To convert from Subaru OEM to generic Radio antenna plug. Easy to find, example below:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/181206313478 (~AUD$15)

c) GPS antenna harness. To convert from Subaru OEM to generic GPS antenna plug. Again easy to find, example below (make sure the connector suits your HU, but I believe most are like this one):
http://car-solutions.com/en/adapter-for ... n=automail (~AUD$30 based on USD conversion)

d) Jaycar 6-pin auto connector. This is to convert convert your OEM camera from standard Subaru plug to an interface the new headunit can use (an RCA plug). The reason to use this is its very difficult to find the 8pin connector Subaru used for the camera. There is a harness for another purpose which costs $35 and is missing 2 pins meaning it is not useful. If anyone can track down where to buy them wholesale give me a shout!
https://www.jaycar.com.au/6-pin-multi-p ... t/p/PP2024 ($3.95 - good idea to buy 2 of them just in case!)

e) An RCA cable. We are going to cut this and connect it to the Jaycar connecter from above. This allows the OEM camera to connect to an RCA connector on the new headunit.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/rca-plug-to-r ... m/p/WA7050 ($5.95)

f) 12V to 6V DC converter. This is to downstep a 12v feed to a 6v feed. The OEM camera uses 6v for some reason which is a pain in the ass, but this unit will do the trick.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/381462910417 (~AUD$5)

g) 3.5mm headphone extension lead (1.5m) This is to extend the microphone cable to allow it to be installed in the factory roof location, and run down the A-pillar into the headunit harness. Note - if you don't want to run the new BT MIC, there is a MIC already on the front of the headunit and it works fine. Saves you pulling off the A-pillar and mucking about in the headliner if you don't want to.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331569160464 (~AUD$4)

h) New Trim Fascia. Due to the OEM headunit width (wider than a standard double DIN), using a regular width double DIN unit will leave ugly holes on either side. The solution is to buy a new fascia from China which is suited for the regular DIN width. You need to re-use the aircon vents and clips from your factory fascia.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291349372320 (AUD$59)

i) A small box of washers. As I will show you later, I had to use a few washers on the bottom screws of the headunit where it bolts into the dash. These washers on the bottom allow it to tilt up slightly, so it lined up perfectly with the new fascia. You may or may not have this problem depending on which head unit you get, but always good to be prepared. M10 size is good, probably go stainless for longevity. Get about 6 or 8 of them to be safe.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/zenith-m10- ... r_p2430052 (AU$0.36 each)

j) MicroSD card. To store GPS maps (eg Google Maps offline etc). Optional but recommended.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/282042765032 ($ depending on the size you get).

k) 4G USB Wifi Dongle. If you want to keep your headunit connected to the internet at all times (so you can use Waze etc), it is highly recommended to get one of these. They work as a hotspot so you can plug it into the cigarette lighter and everything in the car can connect as a hotspot (including the headunit). Optional.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201843851655 (~AUD$65 shipped)

l) Bluetooth ODBII Adapter. So you can connect your ODBII to your headunit and get the cool gauge readouts on screen etc. Optional.
http://www.autopumpkin.com/car-electron ... y0004.html (~AUD$20 shipped after USD conversion)

m) USB Key. To store music, videos etc so you can play them back on the headunit. The headunit will not power hard drives but drives USB keys fine. Optional.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/152087652051 ($ depending on the size you get).

n) Spare 15A fuses. Handy to have if you accidentally pop your fuse on the headunit. Definitely possible if you are mucking around with a desktop PSU. Optional.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/15-amp-blade- ... e/p/SF2136 (AUD$0.85 each)

2 – Factory Headunit Overview
First of all, the unit we are replacing - the Kenwood factory Nav unit (model # FXDB09MF2).

Main talking points of the factory unit:
- The main harness we purchased will take care of almost everything.
- The OEM camera runs at 6v and uses a proprietary plug. Also it has a 'camera detect' wire that must be grounded to make it turn on. We will make a custom connector to downstep from 12v to 6v, convert the video interface to RCA and also ground the camera detect wire.
- The factory BT MIC is powered off the headunit (unknown voltage) and again uses proprietary connector. We can not use this - we must use the new MIC that comes with the new head unit.

Photos below for reference, including rear view of connectors.
(photo credit to ae64.com - more useful info on their site here: http://ae64.com/NaviTransplantharness.htm)
Image
Image
Image


2 – Replacement Headunit Overview
Secondly, the unit we are installing - the AutoPumpkin Lollipop 7' Android unit. (model # 11-RQ0269E-US-A).
http://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin-7-10 ... amera.html

Features:
- 1024x680 touchscreen
- Android 5.1 on a quad core 1.6GHz with a gig of RAM and 16GB flash
- Wifi support (connect to home wifi while outside, and then to a wifi internet dongle while on the move)
- Separate Parrot BT module for high-quality BT audio
- 2x USB ports to plug in flash drives etc
- MiniSD card slot (offline maps, music, videos etc)
- Huge amount of connectivity options - multiple AV/audio in, dual USB ports etc

Basically, all the bells and whistles for a decent price (~AUD$350).

Here is a good outlay of the interfaces and inclusions (from the AutoPumpkin site).
Image
Image
Image

_________________
My WRB SH9 S-Editon: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=52453


Last edited by clayq on Wed Mar 08, 2017 5:23 pm, edited 84 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 9:58 am 
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I Say: Fozzy fozzy fozzy, oi oi oi!
Vehicle: 2011 Forester S-Edition WRB

Posts: 1254
Location: 3015
4 – Test The New Unit
This step will save you a lot of headache if you received a DOA or faulty head unit. Best to power it up on the bench using a PC power supply. Its quite straight forward, you just need a regular ATX PC power supply. I am not an electrician, so will refer you to a detailed separate guide for this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Wire-a- ... puter-PSU/

Some notes on this - you need to connect both the ACC (accessory - red) and +12v(yellow) to the 12v rail of the psu. If if you don't connect the accessory, it will not come on. The accessory is the same as turning the key in the car - without it there will be no power. Also, you need to use a paperclip to power on the ATX PSU - it simulates pressing a power button from the PC. In the guide its the green wire, you use a paperclip to connect it to a black (ground) wire on the same plug.

If you get really bored you can permanently integrate a PC PSU onto your workbench, install a missile switch, LED and banana plugs for 5v and 12v DC :) All these pieces available at Jaycar.

Image
Image


5 – Prepare the Harness
The main harness is going to achieve most of the things you need to correctly connect the new headunit to your car's factory wiring:
- Power
- Auxiliaries (key/accessory power, dimmer)
- Steering wheel controls (SWC module included with harness)
- Speakers/underseat sub
- External AV ins from the centre console
- 2x new USB ports (new harness with the headunit that you need to feed down into the cubby section of the centre console)

The reset of the pieces are achieved with secondary adapters:
- Radio antenna (with the converter you purchased)
- GPS antenna (with the converter you purchased)
- BT MIC (by installing the new MIC in the roof, down A-pillar). Note: If you don't want to go to the trouble of installing a new MIC, there is already one built into the headunit (on the front). It works fine, so you could save yourself some trouble here.
- Reverse camera (using the custom adapter we will make)

5.1) Plug the converter harness into the headunit harness
Start by connecting together the large black plugs (the ISO connectors) which will join perfectly. Make sure your SWC module (the black box) is connected on both sides (there is a connector on each side which should be plugged 'in path' of the main harness. Also there is a 3.5mm headphone jack style output from the SWC module. Instructions say this is only for certain brands of HUs (the AutoPumpkin does not have it), so leave it disconnected.

Also plug in your 3x RCAs for the AV-in ports in the central console (Yellow/Red/White AV-in).

5.2) Crimp the harness wires as required.

You need to manually crimp some of the wires from the main harness to the new HU (crimp connectors already there on the harness for you - use your crimp tool). Make sure you remove the blue insulated cappings first! Mappings from the harness to the AutoPumpkin unit below:
- Key +5v. Brown (Harness) to Brown (HU)
- Key -5v. Grey (Harness) to Brown/Black (HU)
- Ground. Black (Harness) to Black (HU)
- Park Brake sensor. Green (Harness) to Pink (HU)
- Reverse sensor. Purple/White (Harness) to Orange (HU)
- Speed pulse sensor - left disconnected, as there is no input on the headunit
-Pics below to illustrate. If you forget to connect these, the headunit will power on without your keys in the ignition (and flatten your battery) - I found out the hard way :(
Image
Image
Image


5.3) Create the Customer Camera Adapter
The next thing to do is to create a custom harness to replace the OEM Camera (8-pin plug) for the aftermarket HU (RCA in).
This info courtesy of Subaru Forester forum (http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... ch-101481/)

Firstly, lets check the pin-outs. Keep in mind picture below is of the car-side connector. Due to this 8pin connector being proprietary (cannot find a kit to terminate a new connector), the way I went with it was to cut it off and terminate a new one. I did find another harness for something else (amp connection kit) which had the corresponding 8pin connector, however it was missing a few required pins and impossible to terminate new pins. Therefore this was the only reasonable way to go to keep the OEM camera. I would much rather cut and make a new connect then having to run a new reverse camera - that would be a pain in the ass!

For wiring the plugs, you need to strip your wires accordingly (with the side cutters), and then use the needle-nose pliers to crush the connectors onto the wires at the base on the pins. Once you terminate the pin, insert it into the connector hole and it will click (and then will be stuck in the connector). Double check your wiring diagram (below) before inserting the pins, otherwise its a pain to get them out again!

For the RCA connector you need to cut the RCA cable you previously bought - there will be 2 wires (centre+ & shield-). Also use spare wire from the RCA for the cam grounding wire (see further down for more info).

Image

Factory Cam Connector (car-side plug)
Pin Function
=== ========
1 Video + (blue with yellow stripe)
2
3 [Camera power 6V+] (white with blue stripe)
4
5 Video ground (shield) (grey with silver dots)
6 Camera detect (blue with orange stripe)
7 [Camera power ground] (no connection on the aus delivered model)
8

Image

New 6-pin female Connector (car-side plug - for later)
Pin Function
=== ========
1 Video + (RCA connector - centre pin)
2 Camera power 6V+ (red 6V+ wire from 12v/6v converter)
3
4 Video ground + cam detect wire (RCA connector - outer shield/negative)
5 Camera power 6V- (yellow 6V- wire from 12v/6v converter)
6 Camera detect

Image

New 6-pin male Connector (headunit-side plug - now)
Pin Function
=== ========
6 Camera detect
5 Camera power 6V- (yellow 6V- wire from 12v/6v converter)
4 Video ground + cam detect wire (RCA connector - outer shield/negative)
3
2 Camera power 6V+ (red 6V+ wire from 12v/6v converter)
1 Video + (RCA connector - centre pin)

Note: The wire from 6 loops back to 4. This is to give the cam grounding wire a ground via the camera negative wire. You can use a spare piece of wire for this from the RCA cable, there will be plenty spare.

Image

If you did it right it should look like this:
Image

Now we need to splice the 12V power for the 12v/6v converter into the harness.


5.4) Splice Camera Power into the Harness
In this step we are going to wire the 12v power for the 12v/6v converter for the camera.

We need to cut both the main 12v+ and Ground wires on the main harness, to allow us to splice. Be sure to cut the adapter harness and not the harness which shipped with the headunit. Using the spade bits from your crimping kit, choose 2 matching pairs - the red (small wire) will be on the car-facing side, and the blue (medium wire) will be on the headunit-facing side. The reason we need the larger crimp (blue) is we are going to bring both the original wire plus the wire from the 12v/6v converter together. See the picture below (white circle).

Once you've crimped the connectors the terminals will slide together (spade bits). Be sure to hook 12v+ to 12v+ and ground to ground/12v-, otherwise you will blow the fuse in the headunit.

Once its done, be sure to wrap some black electrical tape around each of the connections so no bare metal is exposed, otherwise it could short (and again kill your fuse).

Image
Image

5.5) Plug in the rest of your adapters
You can now connect your adapters for the GPS antenna and Radio antenna into the headunit.

Also plug in your RCA connector from the newly-created camera adapter to the 'CAM-IN' port of the headunit harness.

Don't plug in your BT MIC/extension cable yet (if you plan to install it), as you need to first run it through the headliner and down the A-pillar to behind the dash.

You now have finished your harness work and are ready for installation!


_________________
My WRB SH9 S-Editon: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=52453


Last edited by clayq on Tue Mar 07, 2017 10:05 pm, edited 31 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 9:59 am 
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I Say: Fozzy fozzy fozzy, oi oi oi!
Vehicle: 2011 Forester S-Edition WRB

Posts: 1254
Location: 3015
6 – Uninstall Factory Unit
In progress

Instructions for:
- Removing the sunglasses holder and a-pillar trim to run the BT MIC/extension (if you want it)
- Removing the dash/fascia from the existing headunit for removal
- Pulling out the headunit - unclipping all the plugs (some will be tight)
- Removing the aircon vent
- Plugging in all the new connections
- Running the USB connector cables behind the AC controls and out into the cubby hole underneath (so you can plug in USB keys full of music/videos etc)

Here is a good run-down on opening the dash, obviously its in reverse as its a US vehicle (left hand drive).
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... 9-a-55782/


7 – Install New Unit
In progress

Notes:
- Re-use the factory mounting ears - they are more compatible than anything you can buy aftermarket. Screws holding ears to stock HU are extremely tight! Use exactly the correct phillips head screwdriver, and twist slightly tighter to 'crack' the seal before turning in the loosening direction. If you are not careful you will strip the screws! If you need new ones they are an M5 I believe.
- Most aftermarket HUs are 7", while the factory is wider. This will leave an annoying gap on each side of the HU. You need to use the new fascia from China as suggested by Gecksta (thanks!).

Cut and re-terminate new cam connector - cut back sheath and then cut off connector. Factory plug below:
Image

After terminating new 6-pin connector as per wiring guide in section 5:
Image

Run the USB leads down the gap behind the AC controls so they end up in the cubby hole at the bottom. Easiest to take the aircon duct out to do this (2 screws and pull forward).
Image

Use washers on bottom mount points to tilt headunit up slightly:
Image

Ready to reattach fascia:
Image

Note: be sure to transfer required parts from factory fascia to new fascia (aircon vent adjusters and trim clips). I had to use a small file to sand down 2 of the clip mount points, as the clips were not staying on properly. After that it was perfect.

What it looks like if you try to use the factory fascia (gaps on each side):
Image

If you did it right, the end result will look like this:
Image
Image



8 – Test/Configure
In progress

Testing the functions of the headunit (in progress)
- Turn on/off
- Dimming with the headlights works
- Connect your phone via bluetooth
- Tune in radio stations
- Test speakers
- Test wireless - install/update applications etc
- Test reverse camera (put in reverse). You can make the unit apply the grid lines in the settings.
- Assign functionality for the steering wheel controls
- Colourcode side LEDs to your interior colour scheme
- Check ODBII connectivity (BT) against the apps (dials etc)
Image
Image

_________________
My WRB SH9 S-Editon: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=52453


Last edited by clayq on Wed Mar 08, 2017 12:07 am, edited 14 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:15 am 
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I Say: If a bear sh*ts in the woods...
Vehicle: MY09 XT - Obsidion Black

Posts: 369
Location: Perth
Nice write up mate, can I assume this will suit is with stock the non premium SH model (non nav units)

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 2:21 pm 
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I Say: Fozzy fozzy fozzy, oi oi oi!
Vehicle: 2011 Forester S-Edition WRB

Posts: 1254
Location: 3015
Flacky wrote:
Nice write up mate, can I assume this will suit is with stock the non premium SH model (non nav units)


Cheers ;)

Non-nav units use a different harness (only 1 connector instead of 2) - should be the same but with a different main harness. Would need to see the back of the non-nav unit to be sure.

I actually have a non-nav harness for sale as I ordered it accidentally!

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2016 9:48 am 
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Vehicle: MY11 2.5XT Premium - Dark Grey

Posts: 98
Location: Mackay, Queensland
Hey clayq, great write-up, it's really helped me with my install.

I'm edging closer to tidying up my install and have a question about the reverse camera wiring. I have all the fittings I need to get the reverse camera set up and grabbed a Narva piggyback fuse holder to source power for the DC-DC (12V to 6V) converter. Is my thinking correct that I should tap it into the 'Back Up' fuse (which I imagine powers the Reversing Lights), or should it tap into something else?

I'm sorting out the mounting, which needs to be nudged forward with longer screws and some spacer washers so the HU sits flush in the fascia, as it is it sits back about 10mm.

I've mounted the HU GPS antenna under the dash, is working a treat and one less connector to buy.

I've also got to sort out the OEM Subwoofer connections. I am seriously thinking Santa should bring me one of those Kicker underseat jobs... I had one in my Diesel Foz and it was great.

The Steering Wheel Controls install went without a hitch, very happy about that.

I'll start a post when I am done and upload some photos to complement what is already available here.

Thanks again.

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The family tree: MY11 2.0D Premium S3 6MT | MY14 2.0XT Premium S4 CVT | MY11 2.5XT Premium S3 5MT (Current)

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2016 3:32 pm 
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I Say: Fozzy fozzy fozzy, oi oi oi!
Vehicle: 2011 Forester S-Edition WRB

Posts: 1254
Location: 3015
Thanks for feedback - I need to find a few hours myself to finish off the camera harness so I can make sure its all working :thumbs: For the 12V feed you should be able to take it from the main harness feed, so will need to insert a 'Y' type connector. Once I do it myself will definitely document and add into the writeup.

I also really want those underseat woofers, but want to finish the headunit first (my shed is getting too full of parts which I don't have time to install) :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:55 pm 
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I Say: Fozzy fozzy fozzy, oi oi oi!
Vehicle: 2011 Forester S-Edition WRB

Posts: 1254
Location: 3015
Just bumping this so its easier to find while I finish working on it. Still a work in progress, going to take me a bit longer than anticipated as I don't want to gloss over any details. Feel free to give me any feedback as I go along :thumbs:

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:19 pm 
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I Say: Soon 2 be fastest SH9 in Oz...
Vehicle: 09 XT SH9 fully modded 2 Sti

Posts: 611
Location: Sydney west
Kenwood make a model ddx916ws & ddx616wbt that fits the forester radio surround spot on

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing SH Forester Nav unit with aftermarket unit
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:28 pm 
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I Say: Fozzy fozzy fozzy, oi oi oi!
Vehicle: 2011 Forester S-Edition WRB

Posts: 1254
Location: 3015
FLY.STI wrote:
Kenwood make a model ddx916ws & ddx616wbt that fits the forester radio surround spot on


Cheers, good to know - saves changing the fascia. Guessing like most Kenwoods its probably closer to the $1k mark. Really loving the flexibility of an Android HU though :thumbs:

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