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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:26 pm 
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I Say: I have CDO. It's like OCD except the letters are in alphabetical order, as they should be.
Vehicle: MY05 XTL - Black

Posts: 5070
Location: Tanah Merah - Brisbane
You often get a lot of water in there mixed with the oil due to the hot gases cooling and condensing in the can.

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Current Ride - 05 XT Foz
Previous Ride - Your mum ;)

housemusik wrote:
H-are wrote:
Are you going 6 speed for the strength of it?
I just want to do skids bro :lol: DCCD ftw


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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:26 pm 
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I Say: I have CDO. It's like OCD except the letters are in alphabetical order, as they should be.
Vehicle: MY05 XTL - Black

Posts: 5070
Location: Tanah Merah - Brisbane
Check it every 5000km when I do my service.

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Current Ride - 05 XT Foz
Previous Ride - Your mum ;)

housemusik wrote:
H-are wrote:
Are you going 6 speed for the strength of it?
I just want to do skids bro :lol: DCCD ftw


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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 7:32 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1248
Location: Brisbane
UPDATE

I've been poking around an unmodified 2009 XT (auto) today [not mine] and have the following additional notes for the DIY thread:-

1. It's not a heat shield bracket

The strange metal object on top of the gearbox (that I refer to as a "heat shield bracket") isn't anything to do with the heat shield and doesn't seem to do anything on an unmodified car.

Image

I'm guessing it's a bolt-on point to help with lifting the gearbox in and out. More experienced Subaru people are welcome to chip in with an answer.

I expect that it will be more common than not for people to be able to remove this bracket to make the lines easier to run.


2. The T-piece is different (an "F-piece"?) on later models

On the 09 it's an F-shaped arrangement with short (thumb-length) rubber hoses and similar-sized black plastic joiner pieces.

Once you figure out what's going where it's probably just as easy to work with that arrangement as with the T-piece shown in this DIY when installing your crank-case catch can setup.

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My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=54775


Last edited by Yowie on Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 8:28 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1248
Location: Brisbane
Further minor updates:-

1. Changing my brand/type of oil produced a different type of muck in the catch can. On the previous oil (Prolube) it was that yellow water shown earlier. On the current oil (Penrite Enviro+ GF5 5w30) it's more of a brown-grey butter/gravy with less volume overall. The "gravy" still drains from the ball-valve drain, but takes a bit more time than the yellow water. The up-side is that the gravy accumulates slower than the yellow water.

2. A service that includes an Upper Engine Clean seems to produce a lot of brown-grey-yellow "butter" in the catch can. This might jam it up and negate the effectiveness, so it will be worthwhile removing and cleaning the whole catch can after an UEC. Full removal is possible without removing any other parts in the engine bay, albeit it's a bit fiddly. On that note, it might be worth upgrading the main inputs and output fittings to brass (over the supplied plastic) so you have some better purchase to remove them from the head of the catch can with tools.

3. UEC full removal aside, for normal inspection and cleaning the bottom part of the catch can unscrews, comes out for cleaning (with degreaser) and goes back in fairly easily. Fewer zipties to secure the drain hose is a good thing for easy servicing. I'm down to the one ziptie holding the drain hose to one of the auto transmission fluid hoses. Tremayne_XT's suggestion of a check/clean every 5000km sounds about right.

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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 11:25 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1248
Location: Brisbane
Update approximately 12 months and an E85 switchover later.

In March 2017 (pre E85) I modified the catch can by:-

1. drilling out a bigger hole in the baffle plate under where the dirty air enters; and

2. packing some stainless steel wool on the dirty side of the Mishimoto fine filter.

Image

Last Sunday I pulled the whole setup apart to inspect and make minor changes.

Overall, the crank case can works very well removing most of the muck from the crank case before it gets into the inlet pipe and manifold.

This is the buttery sh!t that collects on E85 and the engine oil I'm using:-

Image

Image

While not 100% filtration, the combination of some extra steel wool and an extra hole in the baffle plate keeps everything upstream of the catch can very clean. Clearly some yellow-coloured water vapour is still making it through to the pre-turbo pipe and depositing itself in the intercooler and pooling in the "pregnant hump" of the throttle body hose, but at least it isn't oily rubbish.

On petrol with no catch can the PCV valve looked like this:-

Image

12 months later (on catch can) the PCV valve pulled out of the manifold looking like this:-

Image

I haven't taken the manifold off, but the reduced rubbish getting in there must be doing wonders for the overall manifold & valve cleanliness.

The stuff coming up out of the crank case is at least as nasty as on petrol, because the blue plastic elbow off the crank vent is now caked with the black & dark brown rubbish:-

Image

With everything apart I took the opportunity to replace the awful plastic barbed/NPT catch can fittings with brass & alloy* items for easier fitment & removal of hoses. The plastic ones were a real struggle to remove the hoses once on.

[*If you're wondering why one is brass and one is allow - here's a tip for internet parts ordering, check you've ordered two of something when you want two of something]

I also added some fresh stainless steel wool ahead of the Mishimoto filter.

Image


The original rubber fuel & heater hoses worked well with no visible degradation, blockages, pooling of fluids etc. However I wanted to mess with something that wasn't broken see what's going on more easily, so I replaced selected sections of the 1/2" hose with this clear PVC hose from Supercheap:-

Image

Image

The photo shows the hoses freshly installed. After 3 days or so the "dirty side" hose is showing a yellow fluid inside while the "clean side" hose is still clear. Both show condensation after a drive.

They are light-duty hoses when it comes to oil, so we'll see how well they hold up to heat & chemicals in due course. I still have the old rubber fuel line to swap back if needed.

I was going to drill out the small hole in the OEM plastic T-piece for better overall flow and to make up for the extra restriction cause by the hoses & catch can. However after seeing how clean the "clean side" of the setup had stayed I elected not to mess with a good thing for the moment.

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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 10:17 pm 
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Vehicle: 2008 MY09 F XTP

Posts: 179
Location: Melbourne
Hey Yowie,

How are those hoses holding up?

I thought you were meant to run two catch cans for these motors? :dontknow:


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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Sat Jan 27, 2018 10:47 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1248
Location: Brisbane
The clear vinyl hoses are doing ok for the moment.

The "hot dirty side" vinyl hose is probably the most discoloured and brittle at the moment, but still works. The vinyl hose is probably a "replace annually" type deal. Lucky it's pretty cheap. Fuel hose is obviously the more durable product, but it's nice to be able to eyeball the state of things any time.

In other news, I drilled out the T-piece recently:-

BEFORE

Image

AFTER

Image

The theory is that the longer hoses and the filtration in the catch can is enough of a restriction on its own, so the T-piece can be opened up for better flow to evacuate blow-by gas better - particularly on E85.

The next oil change will prove the matter, but I suspect that the "yellow foam" that used to accumulate in my filler tube after an oil change may be a thing of the past with the drilled-out tee piece:-

Image

If I started again from scratch I would just use a brass 1/2" tee piece from Supercheap.

----

I do run two catch cans. My head-breathers catch-can is not the topic of this DIY thread but can be seen on pages 1, 14 & 15 of my build thread. I use an out-of-production Kap Industries catch-can down near the radiator under the inlet snorkel:-

Image

The head-breathers setup intercepts the "dirty air" line that comes off the plastic crossover pipe (normally straight into the turbo inlet pipe), goes to the catch can then the "clean air" line comes back up to a rotates spigot on the silicone turbo inlet pipe.

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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2018 11:17 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1248
Location: Brisbane
This is a picture of an off-the-shelf PCV hose assembly from a 2009+ SH9 Forester.

Image

Hopefully the notes on the cardboard make it clear what size everything is and where it comes from or goes to from where it comes or to where it goes.

Clearly it is different from the setup in the 2008 SH9 Forester (from which most of the DIY pics in this thread come) in that:-

(a) it has an "F piece" rather than a plastic T-piece;

(b) it has some handy plastic adaptors (1/2" to 1/2" right angle and 1/2" to 16mm shallow angle.)

Not clear from the photos is the following difference between 2008 and 2009:-

1. 2008 has a 19mm rubber offset pipe coming off the crank case and allowing the plastic T-piece to plug in closer to the passenger side; whereas

2. 2009+ has the F-piece plugging straight down onto the crank case (and therefore coming straight up closer to the turbo).

For the catch can enthusiast, this means obtaining a short straight piece of 19mm heater hose so you can connect the crank case to that blue plastic 19mm elbow from the DIY pictures. It will just pop up closer to the turbo by a few cm. There is still plenty of room to work with so it isn't a problem.

The piece of 1/2" (12.7mm) rubber hose to the turbo inlet pipe (as shown above - "Hose To Turbo") already hooked up should be tapped into with an adapter so it gets one of the "clean air" feeds from after your catch can. I doubt that you would be able to replace your existing OEM Hose To Turbo without removing the inlet manifold, so just tap into what you already have in place.

See the restriction in the factory F piece:-

Image

It's probably user's choice as to whether you:-

(a) discard the factory F-piece and use an aftermarket brass 12" T-piece as your post catch-can splitter (this is my recommendation);

(b) use the factory F-piece as your post catch-can splitter but see how you go drilling out a larger hole in the rubber;

(c) as in (b) without drilling because you don't need a lot of flow;

(d) use the F-piece in its original position but only intercept one of the hoses (eg pre-turbo) with a catch can, leaving disgusting blow-by gas to go through your PCV valve to gum up your inlet manifold and valves.

EDIT "watch this space" - it may be that a "fully drilled out" or "fully open" T-piece/F-piece allows too much airflow from the turbo inlet pipe to the lower-pressure manifold/PCV at light load. I'll be experimenting with inserting a restriction back in the hose between the T-piece and the turbo inlet pipe.

More generally, the two plastic hose adaptors seem quite well made and handy to be re-used in a catch can setup. The plastic barbs hold well but still allow a rubber hose to be removed.

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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:07 am 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1248
Location: Brisbane
I was concerned that, since impulsively drilling out the whole of my OEM plastic T-piece on the catch can setup, that:-

(a) too much post-catch-can air (which is not perfectly scrubbed) was getting to the pre-turbo pipe and depositing its foul contents; and

(b) too much air was rushing from the turbo intake to the PCV valve (bypassing the throttle) at low load (not that the car's behaviour was noticeably affected)

I've now had this aluminium slug fabricated in a lathe. A 6mm hole is drilled in it and it has been pressed into an off-the-shelf brass 1/2" hose joiner with a vice:-

Image

The 6mm hole corresponds closely enough to the 5.76mm restrictor hole on the "to turbo pipe side" of a 2009+ "F-piece".

If the setup later seems to not extract air quickly enough I can drill the 6mm hole out a bit later.

To be clear, if you use the OEM T-piece (2008 models) or F-piece (2009+) AND preserve its 5.76mm restrictor hole you will NOT need to make an extra restrictor like this.

If you want/need a restrictor but don't have access to a machine shop you might need to get creative to fabricate a 6mm restriction in your hose-to-turbo. Eg obtaining a round piece of solid material (plastic, alloy, steel?) as long as your thumb and drilling a 6mm hole through the centre?

An extra cut was made in the "to turbo" 1/2" hose just after the drilled-out T-piece and the new restrictor was placed quite close to the T-piece:-

Image

Everything then clicked back together neatly with only two extra hose clamps and the brass divider visible in the "to turbo" hose:-

Image

I'm NOT adding a second restrictor in the path from the crank -> through the catch can - > to the T-piece because, in my estimation, the catch can poses enough of a restriction as it is (with the Mishimoto brass filter and the extra steel wool I've added).

We'll see how it all goes over the next few weeks with oil consumption and the amount/type of fluid in the intercooler and throttle hose.

Some pictures/notes on possible 2009+ hose routing, adaptors, F-piece restriction hole sizes (etc) will follow.

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My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=54775


Last edited by Yowie on Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:44 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Mishimoto compact catch can (crank case) on strut tower (SH)
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:21 am 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1248
Location: Brisbane
Here are some pictures of an "exploded" OEM F-piece from a 2009+ model:-

Image

The internal diameters of the two OEM restrictor holes are shown below:-

Image

This F-piece had become brittle and cracked upon attempted removal. (It's almost like heat and oil fumes are not ideal for rubber long-term. :o )

I then cut it completely through to measure the restrictor holes.

I've heard of other 2009+ owners having the same trouble with brittle F-pieces. This means that you should perhaps NOT bank on being able to re-use your OEM F-piece in your catch-can setup. Please have enough bits on-hand to get yourself going again the same weekend if you crack your F-piece during a catch-can project. It's up to your own sense of value & convenience if you want to buy an OEM replacement kit or make do with your own T-piece and your own 6mm restrictor (if used).

Both options are discussed below.

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My build thread: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=54775


Last edited by Yowie on Sun Feb 11, 2018 12:46 am, edited 2 times in total.

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