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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:48 am 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17778
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
1 - If your gonna torque it, then do it to 70-80nm. Otherwise just do it up "FT" (farkin tight). You can actually get a torque wrench on there. OEM links you cant because the nut needs a spenner not a socket to allow the hex key to pass through.

2 - You can use loctite if you want. But its not nessisary. The cone lock nuts really lock on good. (You will feel just how tight they are screwing the nuts down)

3 - Yes, I see no harm in doing that. I spray them with CRC/INOX before shipping and i also have occaisionally sprayed mine before while on the vehicle.

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:30 pm 
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I Say: Corners > Straights
Vehicle: 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z

Posts: 56
Location: Wauchope, NSW
Sweet. Thanks for that ;]

The FT unit of measurement is well known here :D

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2010 SH XT Premium 5MT C6Z

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:50 pm 
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I Say: Corners > Straights
Vehicle: 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z

Posts: 56
Location: Wauchope, NSW
So it rolled around to 7:45pm on Saturday night, the daughter had finally given up and actually gone to sleep. The wife had decided that she didn't feel well and had also gone to bed. So, what's a bloke to do?

D'uh - SWAYBAR INSTALL!!

Out with the old (16mm stock RSB) and in with the new (22mm Whiteline RSB kit complete with bushes, braces back to the lower control arms, and the awesome endlinks by Bram)

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Old swaybar bush says diameter 15.

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Old swaybar measures 16mm.

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New swaybar measures 23mm all up (guessing approx 0.5mm thick powder coating).

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New endlinks are CONSIDERABLY more solid than the stock items. They come compacted in to smallest dimension, but have been extended to be the same length as the original links.

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The only bit that slowed me down, and required lifting the rear of the car up onto chassis stands, was undoing the inboard control arm bolts. Silly tight and had to lift the car purely to get more angle on the breaker bar - wasn't going the option of busting out the rattle gun in suburbia at 9pm, I currently like all my neighbours :lol:

All fitted up and its solid. Very solid ;]

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So, the important bit - the result and thoughts.

First corner: uphill left hand turn out of one street into another to leave our estate.
Before: back to second, turn wheel, wait for boat to start to migrate round corner, midcorner start to dial it straight and then you'll be roughly where you want to be when you exit.
After: back to second, turn wheel where I normally do and nearly drive into the apex of the corner, back off the steering and away we go. Ummm.. what the??

Pointed it west and drove between Wauchope and Huntingdon on a nice short set of twists.

Now starting to get used to the new feel.
  • 90 odd percent of the body roll is gone. There's still a bit there on longer sweepers, but its definitely at an acceptable level. I think if I'd gone for a stiffer bar it would not feel as comfortable for a daily driver.
  • As soon as I start to turn the wheel, the car starts to move in that direction.
  • There is no more vagueness in the middle of the steering now. Its very active and happening now. Much better.

Money well spent? Absolutely. It drives like a completely different car now ;]

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Jeremy

2010 SH XT Premium 5MT C6Z

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 6:29 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1286
Location: Brisbane
Nice work.

Those Bram-spec endlinks look fuqn tough!

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:30 pm 
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I Say: Corners > Straights
Vehicle: 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z

Posts: 56
Location: Wauchope, NSW
Yowie wrote:
Nice work.

Those Bram-spec endlinks look fuqn tough!


Cheers.

I don't think you could fit anything more solid/larger in the amount of space that is available between the control arm and swaybar and still retain the ability for things to pivot.

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Jeremy

2010 SH XT Premium 5MT C6Z

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:03 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17778
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
Yes. That is correct. I tried 10mm joints (which is what OEM and some other brands swaybar links are based off. And thought that looks weak. So went up to the biggest joints i could fit.

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:13 pm 
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I Say: Needs more positive manifold pressure.
Vehicle: MY01 S/tb - MY01 STi II Type M

Posts: 4931
Location: Port Macquarie, NSW
Excellent. We will have to take it for a good test run up to gingers when I get the S/tb back on the road :D

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:18 pm 
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I Say: Corners > Straights
Vehicle: 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z

Posts: 56
Location: Wauchope, NSW
Bram wrote:
Yes. That is correct. I tried 10mm joints (which is what OEM and some other brands swaybar links are based off. And thought that looks weak. So went up to the biggest joints i could fit.


I like your logic! ;]

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2010 SH XT Premium 5MT C6Z

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 9:18 pm 
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I Say: Corners > Straights
Vehicle: 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z

Posts: 56
Location: Wauchope, NSW
Chips wrote:
Excellent. We will have to take it for a good test run up to gingers when I get the S/tb back on the road :D


It definitely needs to go for a run up the hill ;]

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2010 SH XT Premium 5MT C6Z

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 Post subject: Re: Hardy 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z
PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2018 11:17 pm 
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I Say: Corners > Straights
Vehicle: 2010 XT Premium 5MT C6Z

Posts: 56
Location: Wauchope, NSW
For now, in the land of our SH, we have some cool bits, a bit possibly busted, and some fun.

The cool bits
We joined in on Tobyo's group buy for an upgraded clutch clevis assembly . The parts arrived this week and they look every bit as awesome as they look in his photos in the group buy. Now the hunt is on to find a local machine shop who is up for a bit of a foreign order...

The possibly busted bit
Last weekend, we had a family outing, including the doggo. While parked at a shop, some of us waited in the car with the windows down. Except we found the drivers side rear windows won't go down with either the driver's controls or the door control. Got a little bit of spare time this weekend so I may get to looking into that further tomorrow.

The fun bits
Friday arvo. Achieved my goal at work so I didn't have to work Saturday. Winning.

Filled the foz up with BP Ultimate 98 (as opposed to our usual Shell V-Power 98 because the BP was 9c per litre cheaper). Good cheap fuel? That's a win.

Took a stab in the dark and set the tyre pressures to 36psi all round. Tyres are currently Goodyear EfficientGrip.

Rounded up Dylan and pointed the foz at the mountain. Let the fun begin :D

I've been driving this mountain in various cars since I was on my Ps nearly 20 years ago. A work Ute will do the 30km run in approx 25-27 minutes. A work van, 27+. The 2000 Toyota Corolla I used to own when I met Bec would do it in 20-21minites.my GTI-R Pulsar with all the coil overs and suspension goodies would do just under 20 minutes. A quick run up this hill is never about how many ponies you have under the bonnet. It's about how does your car handle, and can you keep brakes up to it. The only combination we've seen that works the whole way is the combination Dylan is currently running in the type M.

So now, we have a 2010 XTP 5MT Forester with its only mod being a rear swaybar. 21 minutes. And I overheated the brake fluid approx 2/3 of the way through the run and had to baby it for the last bit. Yep, seen that coming. Liberty GT front brake upgrade just moved up my to do list a fair way.

Swaybar - I am really really impressed with how well the 22mm Whiteline RSB kit with Bram's endlinks works. It holds flat enough that I can confidently put it around a corner at 2-3 times the speed listed on the yellow signs and stay comfortably in my lane. I have the swaybar set to hard. Even on corners where there are bumps mid-corner, I can still feel what each corner of the vehicle is doing.

Traction - we did find there are a few corners that change camber mid corner. This was disagreeable to the traction control system and resulted in the orange traction light coming on briefly on a few occasions.

Tyres - for a tyre that is definitely NOT a performance tyre, I was pleasantly surprised that I did not overheat them. We did notice that when we stopped at the top, in a gravel patch, that the dirt on the front tyres went edge to edge nicely. The rears however didn't have dirt at the edge of the tread block. Thus, rears are too high in pressure. Plan for next run is to try 33 in the rear and 35 in the front. This should help with overall traction and cornering ability.

Overall - very impressed with the forester package. It gets up and goes when I tell it to, the brakes (for stock items) are as good as expected) and will cope fine with daily driving.

It'll be interesting to see the difference a decent set of front brakes + correct tyre pressures + a little more traction will do to the overall time. It will also be interesting to see what effect a wheel alignment would have. Current specs are a mystery.

So... Anyone selling a Liberty GT front brake set-up? Even just a pair of callipers would get me out of mischief.

So... On the list for the rest of the weekend:
  • service car with oil, oil filter, upper engine cleaner, and cabin air filter.
  • inspect power window issue
  • wash it!

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2010 SH XT Premium 5MT C6Z

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