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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 2:42 pm 
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Vehicle: MY10 XTP & MY06 RColt

Posts: 518
Location: Newcastle, NSW
^^ thats the one! :lol:

Spent some time tidying it up ready for install, and chucked it into the car to gauge the wife's acceptance of it.. (see what I did there :lol: :roll: )
She has tendencies to freak out when the fuel light comes on, and one of the gauges blocks said light..

Haven't run any wiring yet, that will come once I can figure out a bit of fanciness with the gauge backlights to tie into the dimmer circuit.
These are ProSport gauges, with opening ceremony sweep like speedo etc does, and a dual backlight colour of amber w/red needle or white w/red needle.
Will only be using white backlight to match stock cluster, just hoping I can get them to dim a bit of a night.
Also going to try and re-colour cluster needles red to better match.
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Also have the grill frame finally smoothed and ready for paint.
Waiting my favourite arabs to get stock on a water pump so I can hit the order button for everything else needed for the service. :thumbs:


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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 3:40 pm 
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Vehicle: MY09 XTP & MY16 BT50

Posts: 2294
Location: S.E. Melbourne
Looks good mate! I still haven't installed mine yet... :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 11:17 am 
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Vehicle: MY10 XTP & MY06 RColt

Posts: 518
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Back to the drawing board... dangit.

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Gauges are out for now due to wifes issues with visibility of the cluster behind them, namely the fuel gauge/low fuel light.
(She ran out of fuel once about 10yrs ago in an old car, and it happening again still scares the crap out of her.)

Thinking of mounting them on the steering column as I don't ever plan to have more than the two.
Not as neat but might be able to work with it due to the Prosport gauges thankfully being relatively short, so should be able to fashion up something custom to try keep it as compact/minimal as possible.

Either that or sell the gauges and pod, then get a Scangauge 2 for this car as well. Only thing I don't like about them is they are a bit laggy for reading the more instantaneous parameters like boost/rpm etc..

Win some lose some... :dontknow:

In better news I got around to installing the whiteline rear swaybar links I bought a bajillion years ago so I could connect them up on the "hard" setting or 24mm. Had to bend/massage the HID auto-leveling motor thingo out the way on the passenger side.

Made more of a difference than I was expecting to and now the body-roll or lack of, and turn in feels bang on.
With having the 24mm front (on soft) and 22mm rear (on hard instead of medium), it feels so much more balanced through corners, not dragging it's tail as much.

7 weeks and counting until road trip holiday. Can't wait!


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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 12:06 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 743
Location: Brisbane
Is a replacement wife a viable option in the circumstances?

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Cheers for posting the swaybar notes, i'm considering similar issues at the moment.

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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 12:39 pm 
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Vehicle: MY10 XTP & MY06 RColt

Posts: 518
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Hahaha almost! But after 7 years of marital bliss I'm at that stage it's more inconvenient timing because I could have been out of the slammer by now if I murdered her from the start.. But I guess I do love her... I'm sure it's in the marital obligation/contract somewhere. hahaha

Speaking to her now while she's on lunch break I show her the idea I have for the "happy medium"...
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No joke, her words - "I actually like the ones you have over them cause they look too close together"

:x

No dramas, on the swaybar.
Now I think of it (hindsight talking), it makes total sense if the front and rear are of equal stiffness.
I was just a bit cautious of it adding too much to the rear and wanting to oversteer too much.

What I did also initially was try and match the length of the whiteline endlinks to the OE endlinks.
As I was watching the articulation of the bar as I slowly lowered the rear down - knowing you're not supposed to snug up endlinks until the suspension is under normal load, I wasn't happy with how high it was making the swaybar sit, so I ended up shortening them to almost as short as the endlinks would go and got them to a neutral feeling where I could move the gold stem with finger ease before locking them into place.

Looked much better after that, and seemingly wasn't putting as much stress on the bushes that hold the bar to the mounts/car.
Will see how they go, these ones are known to snap under stress. If they do, will look at Kartboy or Cusco or something.


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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:39 pm 
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I Say: Wubba lubba dub dub
Vehicle: MY10 XTP Satin White Pearl 5M

Posts: 827
Location: Parramatta NSW
Love the ride height mate, will be joining you shortly with a lowered stance. Currently sourcing sway bars as well :)

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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 2:09 pm 
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Vehicle: MY10 XTP & MY06 RColt

Posts: 518
Location: Newcastle, NSW
:thumbs:
You'll love the drop and lateral roll improvements. Then you'll find the lack of seat bolstering annoying :lol:

As much as being lowered can be annoying when we go away camping, day to day driving is much improved the car in making it handle more like a sedan.
If I can get more organised I could wind the car up before-hand... better tackle the fords/river crossings up where we usually go camping.
I chickened out on one of them back at Easter. The "don't be a floodwit" campaign from the last rain reason seemingly worked lol.

Thinking of pulling a little camber out of the front, my eyeballs say the front and the rear are about equal neg camber now. History tells me rear camber at this height is just on -2deg.
Definitely don't want anymore than that, would actually prefer a bit less to be honest. But is not adjustable for now..
Want to bring the front up to around -1deg, see how it handles turning-wise.

With the service nearing before we head up the coast, I didn't order a water pump, but the "preventative maintenance" mentality is kicking in so I'm about to order the pump last minute and a "STi" thermo as the regular ones are out of stock.

Difference being they are the same full opening temp, but begin to open at a slightly lower temp.

Also going to stick it to the wife (not literally, because that creates more kids) and put the gauges back in, and wire them up.
Maybe once she sees how "pretty" they are all lit up she will be ok with them. :dontknow:


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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 1:17 pm 
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Vehicle: MY10 XTP & MY06 RColt

Posts: 518
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Updates - with a picture!
Not much to look at otherwise for a relatively standard car.

Timing belt service done.
All went well apart from me having a brain fart and un-clamping the (engine) right side sprocket and they flung out of alignment. Wasn't too hard to pull them back into alignment again though.
This time instead of forgetting to pull the AVCS oil screen out from behind the right side sprocket, I chickened out. :oops:

In seeing some people struggle with using the right bits, I think an investment in bolt extractor sockets would be wiser.
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Seemingly people have better luck hammering one on over the bolt head then (slowly) ease pressure onto it with a breaker bar to crack the bolt.

Got some new shiny!
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No wait..
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Thus far, with the assist of a slightly lower temp thermostat temps sit in 80-85deg range for mixed driving.
When idling nose first in the shed checking for leaks, purging etc was hovering at 90-95deg.
Thermo temp rating was 84deg, now is 78deg. (STi thermo because racecar) because no stock of 84deg thermo.

Currently got the old scanguage out of the Colt plugged in just to monitor it with the lack of a cluster temp reading.
It seems to drop temp a bit quicker once the fans kick in or your generally moving and pushing air through it.
Not sure how much of that is the radiator vs cooler temp rated thermo..

Ran out of time to wire in the gauges from above/earlier.. Also would rather buy a new upper rad hose and chop that up to fit the in-line sensor bung thing-o. Or as a backup if I use the current one and I stuff it up somehow. Not a lot of space next to the extra layer of rubber, presuming it's there to protect it from the fan if it ever came into contact.
Had to trim both hose ends down for better clearance from the fan and alternator pulley.

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Once the rubber swells under full temp it gets close (closer than above), to the pulley but I think it will be ok. Maybe 10mm clearance when it's at full temp. Cable ties will fix it if in doubt. :thumbs:

All is left to do now is remaining oils and fluids. More to ensure there is no entrapped air etc.


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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 10:36 am 
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Vehicle: MY10 XTP & MY06 RColt

Posts: 518
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Anyone running a Golpher use the supplied vs OEM rad cap?
I'm currently using the Golpher supplied which says it's a 1.3bar (stamped into the cap) and also an "88kpa" by the sticker on top or 0.9kg/cm2... :dontknow:
Leaning more to believing the stamping on the cap wing over the sticker..
It appears that the round or "wingless" OEM cap is also 1.3bar or as quoted 137kpa.. so thinking there isn't much/any difference.

The upper coolant tank near the turbo is 108kpa, so theory would have that one would relieve pressure first also given it's the highest point of the system.
So it shouldn't/wouldn't really make a difference what the rad cap is, as long as it's higher rated pressure than the upper tank which will open at 1.1bar.

Noticed this morning after driving to work the upper rad hose is a bit too close for comfort to the alternator pulley.
Maybe 4-5mm clearance. Looks like a slight re-re-trim is required. Glad I found it now rather than later.


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 Post subject: Re: skyrex's 2nd/3rd round
PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 2:14 pm 
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Vehicle: MY10 XTP & MY06 RColt

Posts: 518
Location: Newcastle, NSW
Back from road tripping up the coast and all went flawlessly.
Drained the rad enough to pop the hose off and trim it. There is a much more comfortable gap now between the hose and alternator pulley at full temp.
Rad in general performed well, held constant 83-87deg temp on fwy, no leaks or issues.
Ended up going on gut instinct and swapping the OEM rad cap into the car.

Thinking that an bump-steer correction kit may be in order shortly.. getting a bit annoying.


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