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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 2:13 pm 
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Vehicle: MY11 S-Edition - SWP

Posts: 1129
Location: Sydney
Wil06 wrote:


I hadn’t head of those. I will check those out. Thanks for sharing.

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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 3:02 pm 
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Vehicle: MY09 XT Premium

Posts: 249
Location: Australia
I've used the Duragloss sealant on the last 3 Subaru's and I love it. Seemed to last a lot longer on the STi for some reason, but maybe that's because I was pretty meticulous with it. I polished the Forester with Menzerna medium & light products and put Duragloss over the top of that but for some reason it didn't last as long as I had hoped. Be interested to see how the quartz holds up. Is your foz daily driven?

Regarding claying the car - the thing that forced me into doing the cut/polish was because the clay ended up scratching the clear coat in several spots. I used a brand new dodo juice clay bar (**** expensive AF) with Bowden's clay lube, quite rigorous with the lube but it scratched anyway? Do you clay with soapy water? I never had an issue claying my STi's with spray lube, just the Forester.


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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 3:16 pm 
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Vehicle: S-Edition

Posts: 27
Location: Melb
jonp wrote:
Wil06 wrote:


I hadn’t head of those. I will check those out. Thanks for sharing.


No probs. I used it with this - https://detailcentral.com.au/nanoskin-n ... x-sealant/


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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:27 pm 
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Vehicle: MY11 S-Edition - SWP

Posts: 1129
Location: Sydney
JamesMR_ wrote:
I've used the Duragloss sealant on the last 3 Subaru's and I love it. Seemed to last a lot longer on the STi for some reason, but maybe that's because I was pretty meticulous with it. I polished the Forester with Menzerna medium & light products and put Duragloss over the top of that but for some reason it didn't last as long as I had hoped. Be interested to see how the quartz holds up. Is your foz daily driven?

Regarding claying the car - the thing that forced me into doing the cut/polish was because the clay ended up scratching the clear coat in several spots. I used a brand new dodo juice clay bar (**** expensive AF) with Bowden's clay lube, quite rigorous with the lube but it scratched anyway? Do you clay with soapy water? I never had an issue claying my STi's with spray lube, just the Forester.


I had no complaints with Duragloss, it was good. Just hoping for a bit more from Gyeon. I had better get more given the time involved in applying it :) Yep, daily driven. I will report back in a few months with how it lasts.

I have never had a problem with claying a car. I used Meguiars previously and it was Ok. Now using Dodo Juice Gentle Grey clay and Dodo Juice Born Slippy lube - all good. Maybe a bit of grit got into the clay and caused it to scratch?

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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 1:31 pm 
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Vehicle: MY09 XT Premium

Posts: 249
Location: Australia
jonp wrote:
I have never had a problem with claying a car. I used Meguiars previously and it was Ok. Now using Dodo Juice Gentle Grey clay and Dodo Juice Born Slippy lube - all good. Maybe a bit of grit got into the clay and caused it to scratch?


Yeah I'm not sure what happened when I clayed it last. It just scratched the **** out of the clear coat and required a cut and polish to remove it. It was pretty gritty but yeah I'm not sure. The clay bar was brand new, hadn't been used and I had about 1/4 of the bar cut off and was using that. It started to deteriorate while I was using it though - would grit up and leave bits on the paint regardless of how much lubricant I used. I'll use soapy water next time - I see a lot of detailers use this method instead of a spray bottle and it seems to work fine.


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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2018 1:35 am 
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Vehicle: MY11 S-Edition - SWP

Posts: 1129
Location: Sydney
Caution long post on car audio :)

Firstly a huge thanks to Marty from FHRX Studios (http://www.fhrxstudios.com.au/) for his advice and assistance in tuning my car audio!! His vast knowledge - often too technical for me to understand - his quality of work and attention to detail is second to none. I high recommend him for all things audio! :)

So.....don’t get into car audio - that is my advice :) :) as it is a slippery slope just like performance modding your car! You start out with the idea of ‘I’ll just do this one change’ and then ‘well maybe just one more’ and so on.... you all know the story :)

I started out with just wanting to replace the factory front speakers. Then slid down the slope by adding sound deadening, under seat sub, amp, head unit and was supposedly finished - as if there is ever really a finish :) So after liking the additional bass I added an extra sub in the boot. This is all covered in previous posts.

Although the sound improved after each change and was so so much better than stock, I wanted more - more volume, more bass and importantly more clarity to the music. I did not just want ‘loud’ as loud does not mean good. As many of us do, we research each mod, seek advice, check bank balances and then make a change. We sometimes then change that mod with some other mod :) So doing more research into car audio and speaking to various people I found you should have your car audio tuned. Really? It was news to me. When we have our suspension changed we get it tuned via a wheel alignment. When we change our exhaust, intake etc we get the engine tuned. So why should you tune car audio when you change speakers, add amps etc? The simple reason is for the same reason you tune your engine - to get the best out of what you have. Given that each car is different and these differences change how things sound, a tune can make a huge improvement with the sound going from good to great. As the same with performance mods, you don’t know what you are missing until you make the mod! The shape of cars eg SF vs SH, cloth interior vs leather interior, seating position (eg driver 195cm tall vs 155cm tall), the position of speakers etc all impact on how sound travels around the car’s interior and therefore how music sounds to you. Then you add that audio components can impact sound eg one brand of speakers can sound different to another brand. One brand of amp can change the sound when compared to the sound from another brand of amp. Additionally, and most importantly, each person has a different taste in what music they like to listen to eg rock, heavy metal, classical etc and also what they like to hear in their music eg lots of bass, lots of treble etc. There are many things to consider to get the music just right for each person - or not consider, as car audio is not a focus to most people as the stock audio is ‘good enough’. Then again performance modding a car is not a focus for most people as their stock car is ‘good enough’. We OzFozers say stock is not good enough for us!

A couple of common ways to tune your car audio is via balance/fader and via an equaliser. Many car head units, especially after market ones, have the ability to do some tuning via these built in features.

Balance/fader provides some ability to ‘move’ the sound around, often referred to as ‘soundstage’ - the width, depth and height of the music. Basically these 3 elements mean 1) having good left and right differentiation with most vocals coming from the centre 2) the music sounding like it is coming from behind your windscreen ie not right at your nose 3) the music sounding like it is level to your head ie not coming from the foot wells. The placement of speakers can have a large impact on the quality of your soundstage so keeping speakers is stock locations can restrict how much can be changed here. The rear speakers are not used, or used very minimally, to get a good soundstage as you want the music coming from in front of you.

A more advanced way to enhance your soundstage is via time alignment. My experience is limited to Pioneer but this feature is on many aftermarket head units. Time alignment allows you to adjust the timing of each speaker (fronts and rear, left and right, as well as the subwoofer) so the sound arrives at your head at the same time, or at an appropriate time. As an example, your head unit spends signals to both left and right speakers. It may assume that both speakers are of equal distance from you. This is obviously wrong as the right drivers speaker is probably 30+ cm closer to you. As such the sound arrives at different times which means the sound placement will be wrong and the music may not have clarity. So using time alignment means you can fine tune moving the sound around to your personal taste. Crossovers can also help. More on these later. Here is a photo of my time alignment settings. You may notice it is setup so that the listening position is front left and not front right as is the fact. Setting it up this way gives more control on audio width. You may also note the subwoofer is set to be 57.5cm behind the driver which is physically wrong but having this setting, rather than the 120cm it actually is, helped make the bass sound part of the music rather than something added to the music - it sound poor before.

Image

Speaker level is another setting that can be used instead of or in conjunction with time alignment. Speaker level allows you to increase or decrease the sound output for each speaker.

Crossovers are used to determine what frequencies each of your speakers will play eg high frequencies for tweeters and low frequencies for subs. Another function of crossovers is to determine how frequencies from one speaker(s) will overlap with other speaker(s). This is called slope - which is the the rate at which sound stops after the crossover point. Often you read people setup the subs crossover frequency to be where the front speakers frequency starts. This can work but should not be the only setup as you should also consider slope as a sharp slope will reduce frequency over lap while a shallow slope will extend the cross over. Re: setup of my crossovers, my sub has the low pass filter set to 80Hz with a slope of -24db/oct and my fronts have the high pass filter set to 63Hz. Why the fronts so low you may be thinking. Well this is because I needed more bass from the front to balance out the bass from the rear sub. This could be done as I have decent fronts that are in a sealed/Dynamated door which helps improve the low end frequencies. It wouldn’t do much if I had stock speakers in stock doors.

The above will help get the soundstage right but there is more tuning to do.....

Equalisers allow you to tune the sound imaging. Basically tuning the sound so it reproduces musical instruments accurately and to your taste (highs, mids and lows). Tuning is done via adjusting each frequency. My head unit has a 13 band equaliser. The more bands you have the better you can tune your audio. When using an equaliser I thought you just increased or decreases each band to your liking or just lazily choose ‘Rock’, ‘Pop, ‘Vocal’ etc from the presents available. This is sort of true but there is a lot of guess work in doing that. A better way to tune your audio is to a target response curve and then fine tune to your personal taste. What is a target response curve? Good question. A target response curve is what is perceived to be an ideal sound curve (frequencies levels) at which your music will sound most natural. You can imagine that there are different opinions as to what sounds most natural and as such there are different target response curves such as Fletcher-Munson, JBL, Harman etc. From my reading they are different but don’t vary by a lot. Here is one from IASCA (International Auto Sound Challenge Association).

Image

Note: this is not the shape of your equaliser graph. It is what your audio should actually sound like in your specific car. So, how do I determine what my curve is and as such what changes are required to match your target response curve? Another good question :) You use a RTA (Real Time Analyser). This could be dedicated equipment or as simple as software downloaded to your phone. Obviously dedicated equipment is better but from my research the mobile phone apps aren’t too bad. I am currently testing about 5 apps to compare and see which one I like. To use a RTA and determine your curve, you play some pink noise and then use the RTA to record your cars audio frequencies. You then use your equaliser and adjust the necessary frequencies up or down until the curve on the RTA matched the target curve. From this point you may like to increase or decrease specific frequencies to match your personal preferences such as more bass etc.

For ultimate car audio tuning add a DSP (digital signal processor). This allows full customisation of everything above and more. Eg time alignment can be done to 0.1sec rather than just distance. Think custom dyno tune vs EzyFlash.

Thanks to Marty, the difference between untuned and tuned is amazing. Something I did not expect. Music is so much more enjoyable to listen to :)

Anyway, that is what I have found out about audio tuning!

Knowing the above, I now have a few more audio mods planned as I move further down the audio modding slope :)

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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2018 7:13 am 
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Vehicle: MY11 S-Edition

Posts: 277
Location: Sydney
Good stuff Jon.

Marty was a bible when i was doing some stuff to mine, its crazy how much you can learn through him and his website

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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 9:08 am 
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Vehicle: MY11 S-Edition - SWP

Posts: 1129
Location: Sydney
Having added an amp to my car already, my car audio was louder than stock and much clearer than stock but not loud enough for those songs I really enjoy loud :) So I swapped out the MTX amp for a Hertz HDP 4. This is a D class amp and will send 150 W RMS to the front component speakers and 500 W RMS to the sub - so about twice the power of the MTX! I can also set the gain lower for better sound quality. While I was at it I swapped the sub :) I went with a 12” Audison AV12 is a sealed box. Sealed provides better sound quality but is not as loud as ported (not that I can tell the difference). Got both second hand. Loving the new setup.

I have decided not to keep the Kicker Hideaway under seat sub. So it will be up for sale in the next few weeks.

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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 11:03 am 
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Vehicle: MY11 S-Edition

Posts: 277
Location: Sydney
Very nice.
Both Audison and and Hertz do some very nice gear.
That Hertz amp will be miles above the MTX one that you had, will deliver cleaner power and will have a better crossover in it for better tuning.

I would love to add a dedicated sub in the back of the foz, but i use the back too often and wouldnt trust it when i throw the dogs in there

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 Post subject: Re: Jon's MY11 S-Edition SWP
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 12:13 pm 
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I Say: Once was
Vehicle: Previously SH...

Posts: 1404
Location: Melbourne
Nice - I put in a Rockford Fosgate amp, it seriously hammers for the fronts :twisted:
https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/product ... ls/p300x2/

Will be rehoming it to the new vehicle. Agreed that you can totally lose yourself in car audio. Pretty sure Tobyo will buy that underseat sub from you :thumbs:

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