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 Post subject: Re: Yowie's SH turbo
PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 11:57 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1411
Location: Brisbane
I finally got some of the "figure 8" gauge holders powder-coated:-

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The speed-holes help tighten the wiring against the bracket:-

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The AEM wideband gives you lots of options for data-logging. Matt (Throttlehappy) advised:-

(a) if I had deleted the Tumble Generator Valves (TVG) the spare 5V input to the ECU could have taken the 5V input from the wideband sensor for logging purposes (but not "rich closed-loop control" due to the factory preferring a "changing amperage" signal from the OEM Claytons wideband in the exhaust manifold rather than a 0-5V signal from a Bosch-style aftermarket wideband sensor); but

(b) since I still have the OEM TVG setup, connecting a 5V signal and ground wires to the manual-recommended pins on a DB9 cable would be fine for laptop-based tuning and datalogging.

Accordingly, I purchased a DB9 computer cable from Jaycar (with male & female ends - more on that later) and cut it about 10cm from the female end.

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I then had to multimeter-probe the cut wires & DB9 pins to find the wires that corresponded to the pins dictated by the AEM instruction manual.

As it turns out, our 5-year-old really likes continuity testing. What's not to like with the multimeter making a noise when you probe the correct pin, drawing a diagram of the results with coloured pens and the whole thing playing out like a process-of-elimination mystery game.

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Before attaching any bulky plugs, I wanted the DB9 plug and a good length of cord to stash in the glovebox until needed for tuning or datalogging.

This meant finding a neat way to get cabling from the driver's to the passenger's side of the dash.

As luck would have it there is a massive void behind the stereo/HVAC area, shown with a vinyl hose hanging out of it below (glovebox removed):-

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The picture below shows the same hose dropping down from the driver's side of the void. I have an aftermarket stereo head unit, so I can't guarantee it's as easy with an OEM stereo. Worth a look though.

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I taped the cut end of the long DB9 cable to the vinyl hose and pulled that cut end through to the driver's side.

I then attached the AEM 5V and Ground wires to the correct wires on the DB9 cable.

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This looks more complicated than it is. Apart from the two wire joins the rest is just strain relief and wrapping it all up as if it's one very long cable:-

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I then pulled a long length of now-joined cable through to the passenger side. I also taped a bight of excess AEM cable to it so I could use up some excess length running behind the dash and back to the driver's side.

The male DB9 plug (with about a metre of cable) now sits coiled up in the glovebox until needed at tuning time.

I didn't want to leave this setup un-tested and waste a tuner's time if the wire connection was bad, so I added some spade connectors to the same-coloured 2 wires on the cut-off female DB9 end and connected a multimeter (and plugged the female test rig to the male end from the glovebox) to be able to check there is a voltage signal from the AEM gauge:-

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This is the voltage reading for "full lean" (engine not running). I'll see what it looks like under different conditions on my next stop-start commute.

---

Thanks for reading.

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 Post subject: Re: Yowie's SH turbo
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:06 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1411
Location: Brisbane
A minor update in relation to oil and E85.

About 5000kms ago I changed from Penrite Enviro+ GF5 5w30 "e85 friendly" full synthetic oil to Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10w40 (full PAO).

I wasn't keen on the low zinc content of the GF5 spec oil. From what I understand, zinc is a useful anti-wear additive, but it is hard on catalytic converters so it doesn't make the cut for a "GF5" specification.

There is a bit of rumour around PAO full synthetics being compatible with E85.

The following is from an email from Penrite:-

Quote:
When it comes to E85 use most vehicle will see the service life of the oil halved due to how the oil’s and fuel mix. We don’t see an issue at all running any of our Racing oil’s in daily driven vehicles on E85 however the decreased service interval need to be known if you are changing this every 5,000 or less that won’t be a problem at all.


I recently got a used oil analysis done on a 5000km sample of the Penrite 10 tenths. All the data came back unremarkable and within normal range (including "negligible" fuel and water content). One needs to take these inexpensive oil analysis reports with a grain of salt, but it seems to be supporting evidence that PAO synthetic oils can be fine with E85 if the oil change interval is short (eg 5000kms).

FYI I also deliberately limit the amount of condensation in the crank case by:-

(a) running two catch cans (plumbed to factory end points to keep the vacuum in the crank case);

(b) not using the car for short trips (where the oil wouldn't get hot enough to boil off the fuel & water in the crank case); and

(c) when I come home at night, opening the oil cap for a bit to let the visible water vapour out.


Other observations on the 10 Tenths 10w40 include:-

(i) less catch can content, although that coincides with the warmer months, so "watch this space" for the winter catch can results;

(ii) slightly less oil consumption with the thicker oil; and

(iii) cutting open the OEM oil filter revealed what seems to be less greasy staining around the bypass valve at the bottom of the filter. I wouldn't be surprised if the thicker viscosity was forcing open the bypass valve on cold start more often and washing the greasy contents of the bottom of the oil filter through the bypass valve.


Item (iii) is some lightweight speculation, although it might be worth trying a thinner oil of the same brand and/or some of the bigger aftermarket filters (theoretically less restriction) that have the same thread & seal diameter to see what the oil filter looks like after 5000kms. All very unscientific of course.

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 Post subject: Re: Yowie's SH turbo
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:02 am 
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I Say: Plan for tomorrow,Live for TODAY!
Vehicle: MY12 XT

Posts: 190
Location: Sydney
I would interpret their response as:

The E85 will degrade the oil, but if you change it more frequently, it should be ok. The Zinc may be better, but the thinning oil would be a concern.

Given your driving situation, I am surprised you have "less consumption"....

I have been using Nulon Racing 5W/50 - NO consumption at all - this includes my roll racing and skid panning..... Quite spirited driving habits with the E85..... I have not had to top up between services.

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VF-52 with Lava blanket, 11psi WG Spring, Company23 EBCS, 3" Mishimoto CAI, PSR Intake, Ceramic Headers & UP Lava wrapped, Ceramic DP, Large TMIC, GFB BOV, Grimmspeed AOS, 3" TBE, F&R Whiteline HD Anti-Sway bars, DW65C, ID1050x, Exedy HD Clutch, DBA F&R T3s - Pmu NS400S, Short shifter,Pitch Stop Mount, KiddoRacing 18psi Tune for E85(FF Shifting & Launch Ctrl)-220kw atw


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 Post subject: Re: Yowie's SH turbo
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:10 am 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1411
Location: Brisbane
Noting their limits, the inexpensive oil sample test indicates no thinning or problems running the PAO oil for 5000kms (my change interval).

It makes sense to me that oil thinning/degradation takes place over time/use, so plotted on a graph there would be a section in the early days where it's still fine. The Penrite email and the testing indicates that 5000kms is fine.

I suspect that some of the fingernail-biting about E85 oil compatibility makes assumptions based on the ridiculously oil long change intervals that car manufacturers are pushing now and the fact that oil companies have to account for the worst possible conditions in that long timeframe.

----

My engine's oil consumption is most likely a result of existing age & wear, so individual oil choices from here probably won't stop it entirely. EJs seem to have a reputation for consuming more oil with age & wear.

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 Post subject: Re: Yowie's SH turbo
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:23 am 
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Vehicle: MY09 XT Premium

Posts: 290
Location: Australia
I emailed Penrite a while ago regarding their 10/10ths 5w50 for my STi which was on e85 full time. Their response:

"The problem with E85 is the way it interacts with engine oil. Oils meeting API SN/ILSAC GF-5 are best able to handle E85 fuel as a specific test was introduced to SN/GF-5 for corrosion protection with E85 fuel. 10 Tenths Racing range, being ester based, are prone to not separating cleanly as ethanol and ester are miscible (they mix). However, their shear-free capability enables them to maintain their superior lubricating properties. For racing cars on E85 the oil change intervals will be of the order of perhaps 1000-2000 km only, making these oils unsuitable for public road use with E85.

So if SAE 5W-50 matches what you want, then Premium 5W-50 is a good choice for track use.
Zinc is at 1240 ppm, not 1800. Check "Typical data" in the link....."
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.p ... _brand=4&i

A separate response:

The zinc level is the one I quoted; 1240 ppm. Be careful with marketing terminology..... ie "zinc plus". As I said earlier, check "Typical data" in the link on the web (0.124% >>1240ppm).

Oil for road use would be Enviro+ GF-5 -the choice is very limited.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.p ... oducts=250. Zinc is at 850ppm.

FWIW - I stuck with the 10/10ths 5w50 in my STi and had no issues in the short period I owned the car. The cold start on it was abysmal and would often take upwards of 7 cranks to eventually start idling. I experienced no mixing of fuel/oil and was changing every 4000-5000kms. The oil always came out looking "clean" (ie similar colour to when it went in). It had a forged motor as well to support its 280awkw.


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