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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 2:38 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1434
Location: Brisbane
All the triangles have the approval of my 5-year-old.

I'm not sure if that carries any weight from an engineering/scrutineering point of view however (check local laws)

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 4:51 pm 
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Vehicle: 68 Datsun 1600 FJ20ET GTX3076

Posts: 314
Location: Newcastle
Might be the pics but doesn't look like your welds are hot enough and they aren't penetrating. Looks like the filler is sitting on-top of the parent metal not melting/flowing in ?

Other then that Great fitment with all the pipes looks better then most pro shops ! :thumbs:

I know what you mean about poor Quality gas i used to get "Speedy Gas" that's our bottle swap company on the east coast had so many issues with contamination in my welds swapped to rented bottles from BOC and contamination issues went away...


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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:23 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17892
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
BEEFY_XT wrote:
Might be the pics but doesn't look like your welds are hot enough and they aren't penetrating. Looks like the filler is sitting on-top of the parent metal not melting/flowing in ?

Other then that Great fitment with all the pipes looks better then most pro shops ! :thumbs:

I know what you mean about poor Quality gas i used to get "Speedy Gas" that's our bottle swap company on the east coast had so many issues with contamination in my welds swapped to rented bottles from BOC and contamination issues went away...

Thanks for the feedback.

Yeah. Some of the welds are a little bit cold. But i think they will still be ok. Im running 120 to 130 amps. 120 on the flatter sections and bumping up to 130 for the deep grooves. It seems to go good once the metal has some heat in it from a previous weld. But first weld of a section takes a bit of heat to build up before it really wets out nicely. And sometimes I dip a bit early.

Material is 0.102"wall thickness. So 120-130 should be right heat??? Im getting better with the welds as i go along, compared to the first few. I am making a concious effort to let the puddle wet right out before dabbing. Also where possible, i try and chamfer the edges of the cope so I can get right deep down into the root of the joint, rather that welding on the surface of the joint.

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:39 pm 
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Vehicle: 68 Datsun 1600 FJ20ET GTX3076

Posts: 314
Location: Newcastle
Amps will depending on how fast you are moving when you weld,pulse, Pedal, tungsten type, diameter, cup size, etc so many variables.

You can run more amps if you move quickly. On the other hand if you move to slow at low amps you actually put more heat into the metal then a fast weld at high amps.

Your doing a excellent job considering angles your welding at not the easiest.

You can always go over them again with pulse higher amps and reflow them get some penetration and without having to dab you have more torch/puddle control.


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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 6:09 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17892
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
Yeah. Out of posistion and over head welds are terrible. Holding your arms up above your head, and keeping a steady hand is alot harder than you would think.

And some of the upper top welds, i literally cannot see. I have to take a photo, get my bearings. Then weld without actually looking at the joint. Then let it cool, get the phone out and take some more photos of the weld, and re-asses if they require more. The tops im kind of just getting a really big puddle going, then flooding it with filler. It aint pretty. But its the only way i can make sure i get a full penertration weld, when i cant actually see it.

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:47 am 
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Vehicle: MY06 XT - Black

Posts: 2218
Location: Canberra
This is awesome! You obviously have a talent for this kinda stuff.

Ideally you'll need to remove the windscreen anyway to get some classic dimple died gussets from the front legs to the A pillars anyway. Which also makes the slightly bigger gap than you wanted a minor issue. I assume this is your first cage, and it's looking great! :thumbs:

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 4:24 pm 
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Vehicle: Evo IX GT wagon

Posts: 5287
Location: ACT
Did you cut round holes in the floor so you could drop the cage down thru the holes so you could weld from above the cage?

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 4:39 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17892
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
XT666 wrote:
Did you cut round holes in the floor so you could drop the cage down thru the holes so you could weld from above the cage?

No. I was able to mount the main hoop and hoop mounting pads directly onto the side sill/frame rail of the car. The sill sits about 100mm higher than the floor pan. So i was able to use ratchet straps to pull it in a little bit, that would allow the cage to drop down off the sill, and give me 100mm more clearance up top. It was tight, but I was able to weld around everything. Some welds i couldnt actually see, and had to kind of guess where i weld. Then stick the cameral phone up there and have a look how it went. Some welds i could see without the welding helmet on, but when on, i couldnt get my head up there. It was very slow going and frustrating.

At the front, there is maybe 50 odd mm to drop down from mounting feet/sill area. But i was also able to move the cage backwards and forwards, and even rotate it a bit to give me the access i needed.

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 4:44 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17892
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
S2-13BT wrote:
This is awesome! You obviously have a talent for this kinda stuff.

Ideally you'll need to remove the windscreen anyway to get some classic dimple died gussets from the front legs to the A pillars anyway. Which also makes the slightly bigger gap than you wanted a minor issue. I assume this is your first cage, and it's looking great! :thumbs:

Thankyou. I do enjoy fabricating and welding. But no way could i do it full time. Hobby stuff like this is quite enjoyable though

originally I wasnt planning on pulling the windscreen. But then i broke it. So its gotta come out anyways. So that will let me weld in a nice big gusset. I have a nice quality hole punch and great kit of dimple dies. So that will be put to good use when the time comes.

I will also attempt a polycarbonate windshield. I have already committed to doing polycarbonate in the rear hatch, and 2 side wagon windows. As these are relatively flat, or only have a single bend axis. And they are fully mounted in the car. So they should be really easy to make. The front windshield as said i was avoiding. But now its broke. It aint that much to buy a sheet of lexan and get chopping....

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Engine build.
PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 9:23 am 
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Vehicle: Evo IX GT wagon

Posts: 5287
Location: ACT
Did you have to switch to Mig welding for the "Blind Man welding technique" Could a mirror above stuck on the roof have helped?
That Hole punch looks epic!
When I did a poly windscreen (acrylic of some sort) I used steel tubing (possibly thin cro mo) to run vertically down behind the centre of windcreen under rear view mirror position, so the windscreen doesn't buckle in under speed. Does that make sense? I also used a expensive primer on the windscreen and some fancy adhesive ($50 a cartridge). Trying to remember what it was called but it had a slogan on it saying "Sticks Anything to Anything". I'll try to find the cartridge...

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Last edited by XT666 on Wed Jan 02, 2019 11:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

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