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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 2:06 pm 
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I Say: Rumo is about to get raped
Vehicle: White 04 JDM bitza

Posts: 9781
Location: Perth
Whys he selling?

Such a fun car, glad I got taken for a spin in it

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 3:20 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17933
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
XT43 wrote:
Whys he selling?

Such a fun car, glad I got taken for a spin in it

Dunno :dontknow: i think he need the money?

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 5:48 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17933
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
Door bars cut, bent and notched.

Image2019-03-09_02-41-55 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Image2019-03-09_02-42-01 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Image2019-03-09_02-42-14 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 8:58 am 
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I Say: This one is staying stock...
Vehicle: GC8Track/NFIIFairlane/MY12STi

Posts: 4803
Location: Melbourne
Nice. :thumbs:

Did you just use a hole saw on the rear doors or something different?

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 9:01 am 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17933
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
Hydraulic punch

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 11:08 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17933
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
Been considering the fuel cell location a fair bit over the last few days. And I have made my decision.

I ordered this size cell as it would fit in the drivers side of the OEM tank location (kinda sort of). As in it would fit length and width ways. But the hieght would require the dip in the floor pan where the rear seats would normally go to be nothced out. It would technically also fit on the passenger side of the OEM tank location, except the original tank is contoured near the diff to allow the exhaust pipe to travel rear to the muffler. The drivers side if the tank isnt hindered by this added complication.

But I was still unsure if I wanted it there or in a more typical aftermarket cell location like behind the rear diff. The problem with behind the rear diff, is you actually need to go quite a ways back to clear the swaybar. So this puts all the wieght way out rearward. And its also not very structuarally protected back there if I backed it into a wall or something. Although it is far away from the driver. And I do have an idea in my head of building a large rear diffuser tunnel like the WTAC styles. So that was a large factor in me wanting to remove the spare wheel well and flat bottom floor it in the first place.

So I got to work and made space for the cell in place of the OEM fuel tank. I cut out enough floor to fit the cell in. Its bloody tight. But it does fit nicely. Its got about 5 mm on the front edge of the cell before it touchs on the diff out rigger. Its got about 5mm on the rear edge before it touchs against the rear crossmember/lateral arm mounting bolt. And its got about 5mm on the side closest the rear diff. And lastly, the other side edge, is about 5mm away from touching the chassis rail where it tapers in to clear the wheel/base of the strut tower area.

Image2019-03-14_07-43-04 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Image2019-03-14_07-43-34 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Some advantages of putting the cell in this place is its pretty well encapsulated in a pretty strong/safe area of the car. Its surrounded by the diff outrigger and rear crossmembers which are big strong parts of the car. Its also covered over by the cage structure aswell. And i like that it keeps the wieght more closer to the center of the vehicle.

I need to now fabricate a proper mounting system for it. I have a pretty good idea in my head how i will do it, that should use the least amount of material/wieght to secure the tank. I will also then need to build a top lid/firewall to enclose the area where the fuel lines enter and exit. I dont want them inside the car. But the top lid will need a large hatch/entry cap type mevhanism to allow fueling directly i to the fuel cell.

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:18 am 
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I Say: This one is staying stock...
Vehicle: GC8Track/NFIIFairlane/MY12STi

Posts: 4803
Location: Melbourne
Good placement, I never like seeing tanks rear of diffs after what happened to me.

I know people say it has bladder etc etc but **** that. Avoid having it there in the first place I went rearward into the wall at easy 150+ and the rear of the car was obliterated.

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 5:34 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17933
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
I have constructed the mounting system to secure the fuel cell to the car. I used some 20x20x1.6 SHS tube to construct a rectangle frame to match the top flange of the fuel cell container. I then set a bunch of riv-nuts into it, to allow the cell to bolt to the frame. I then used some 0.8mm steel sheet to wall down the sides of the frame to meet the existing contour of the floor. I copied the contour onto the new sheet metal. And made a bunch of 10mm flange sections to.meet the floor contour. And then I welded it all in.

The box section frame is probably over kill for the fuel cell. But I figured it would be easy to construct using this material. And the box section would allow for riv-nuts from below to hold the cell. And also allow for riv-nuts from above to secure over a removeable cover/firewall. And also help to stiffen up the floor after I removed a big section of it to fit the cell in.

Image2019-03-17_02-02-21 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Image2019-03-17_02-13-32 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Image2019-03-17_02-14-17 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Image2019-03-17_02-00-31 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

As mentioned before. The fitment is very tight. This foto shows how close the rear corner is to the chassis rail. The top edge of frame actually touchs on the chassis rail. And the lower corner is also right up against the brake lines. Which will need a minor adjustment to not rub.
Image2019-03-17_02-00-46 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Here you can see the clearance to the rear diff cradle. Its very very close.
Image2019-03-17_02-01-30 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

Here is another shot from the rear. Very close to the rear crossmeber and lateral arms. I did shift the box forwards as much as i could to give max clearance.
Image2019-03-17_02-01-00 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

This is clearance on the front side of the cell to the diff outrigger. Its super close here. I didnt leave enough space to get the front bolts done up. So I think this means the diff out-rigger will need to drop in order to secure the cell in place. I was hoping to avoid this. But its just the way it is. I guess its no different to having to drop the out-rigger in order to remove the OEM tank.
Image2019-03-17_02-04-28 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

This is what the bladder looks like without the lid over the box.
Image2019-03-17_02-13-56 by bram biesiekierski, on Flickr

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 7:28 pm 
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Vehicle: MY08 XT (SH)

Posts: 1503
Location: Brisbane
Nice work.

Will the fuel cell just hang from the rivnuts or is there a strap (or something) underneath?

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 Post subject: Re: Yeti Sled. Roll Cage.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 7:42 pm 
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I Say: Car mods are like OddBodz, you got to collect them all! -------------------------------------
Vehicle: MY05 STi swapped sled

Posts: 17933
Location: Spearwood Perth WA
It just hangs. The typical way you are supposed to mount these cells is by using the mounting holes on the periphery of the box.

But i did go from 10 x mounting holes to 16 x. And went from 1/4" UNF bolts to M8. So that is basically doubling the fastening capacity of the box. The box is 1.6mm alluminium. All it does is hold the bladder. The box is reallly light wieght and quite flimsy. There is no doubt that the box would tear well before the mounting rivets pull out. I did use the steel riv nuts aswell. They are the strongest out of ali, steel and SS.

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