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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 5:13 pm 
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Vehicle: MY13 SJ XT Premium

Posts: 382
Location: NSW Mid Nth Coast
Ok, each test for a 5 minute period on the workbench. The Acetone fully evaporates after about 2 minutes whereas the SA459 doesn’t show any signs of evaporation at 5 minutes.

  • Plastic ice cream container lid & the plastic lid on the SA459 can – neither the 100% Acetone or the SA459 showed any signs of attacking them.
  • Grey PVC (as used on switchboards) – neither the 100% Acetone or the SA459 showed any signs of attacking it.
  • Clear 1mm plastic flexible sheet (could be PVC) – the 100% Acetone did mildly attack it (discoloured the surface but that was all) whereas the SA459 didn’t appear to attack it until the plastic was held up to the outside light where a very slight discolouration could be seen.
  • Clear Polycarbonate (Lexan) sheet – the 100% Acetone attacked it & made the surface discoloured & soft whereas the SA459 showed very mild discolouration when held up to the outside light with no softening.
  • On the outside of the plastic inlet manifold & on the outside of the plastic intercooler end tank on our XT (after it had just come back from up the street with the engine at normal operating temperature) – after wiping the SA459 off with a paper towel after 5 minutes & viewed under a very bright LED torch I thought I could just see where it had been but I think it was wishful thinking. I couldn’t detect any softening. I wasn’t game to try the 100% Acetone.
  • On the outside of some new premium rubber fuel line purchased some time ago for my boat – when the SA459 was wiped off with a paper towel a fair amount of black rubber came off & you could see where the SA459 had been. However, even wiping the rubber hose with a paper towel containing Shellite had the same affect. I didn’t try the 100% Acetone.

Edit: On Subaru Australia’s website here it states about the SA459 Upper Engine Cleaner: “Fully compatible with the alloys and synthetics in a Subaru Boxer Engine”


Last edited by subXT on Wed Mar 25, 2015 10:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:26 pm 
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Vehicle: MY13 SJ XT Premium

Posts: 382
Location: NSW Mid Nth Coast
Danoz wrote:
3) The volume - The can was approximately twice the size of the SA459.
Yes – 336gms vs 150gms. I noticed the size difference so I intended to use it twice as a trial. But I don’t know how I’m going to judge 1/4, 1/2 then 3/4, it was hard enough trying to judge just 1/2 with the SA459. I might have to borrow the digital kitchen scales.

I’ve been thinking about the error codes you got at startup. If you applied approximately 1/2 the 336gms with the engine stopped, then that means approx 168gms was applied which is more than the full 150gm can of the SA459. Normally with the SA459 I would only apply approx half the can (75gms) as suggested on the can. I wonder if this is why it threw up some error codes when started.

I remember one of the Techs who services our XT advised me not to put any more than half the 150gm can of SA459 into the engine before starting to avoid any risk of hydraulic lockup. I think that amount would apply to any liquid cleaner in these engines.


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 12:41 pm 
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Vehicle: MY13 SJ XT Premium

Posts: 382
Location: NSW Mid Nth Coast
I tried the same tests with the Liqui Moly Petrol Engine Intake Decarb 2733 that I did previously for the Subaru SA459 & 100% Acetone - each test for a 5 minute period on the workbench. The Liqui Moly didn’t show any signs of evaporation at 5 minutes.

  • Plastic ice cream container lid & the plastic lid on the SA459 can – the Liqui Moly didn’t show any signs of attacking them. Same as the 100% Acetone & the Subaru SA459.
  • Grey PVC (as used on switchboards) – the Liqui Moly discoloured it. Worse than both the 100% Acetone & the Subaru SA459.
  • Clear 1mm plastic flexible sheet (could be PVC) – the Liqui Moly mildly attacked it (discoloured the surface but that was all). Worse than the Subaru SA459 & about the same as the 100% Acetone.
  • Clear Polycarbonate (Lexan) sheet – the Liqui Moly attacked it & made the surface discoloured & soft. Worse than the Subaru SA459 & about the same as the 100% Acetone.
  • On the outside of the plastic inlet manifold & on the outside of the plastic intercooler end tank on our XT – after wiping the SA459 off with a paper towel after 5 minutes & viewed under a very bright LED torch I couldn’t see any visible signs except it was cleaner. About the same as the Subaru SA459.
  • On the outside of some new premium rubber fuel line purchased some time ago for the boat – when the Liqui Moly was wiped off with a paper towel a fair amount of black rubber came off & you could see where the Liqui Moly had been. About the same as the Subaru SA459. However, even wiping the rubber hose with a paper towel containing Shellite had the same affect.

So the Liqui Moly 2733 is more potent than the Subaru SA459 & in one test more potent than the 100% Acetone. This is probably the reason why it does a better cleaning job than the SA459.

One thing to be aware of when fitting the supplied plastic tube onto the Liqui Moly 2733 can; that action sprays a short burst of Liqui Moly out the end of the tube in three directions so be very careful where it is pointing.


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 2:53 pm 
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I Say: very little. It always gets me into trouble ...
Vehicle: MY07 X MT

Posts: 459
Location: Perth
Mate, I don't do my own UEC administration - STechnic do my servicing - but I appreciate your efforts here as I'm sure the rest do. Good stuff!


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2015 7:48 pm 
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Vehicle: MY13 SJ XT Premium

Posts: 382
Location: NSW Mid Nth Coast
Thanks. But the credit has to go to Danoz for trying it on his XT & posting the results. Easy_peasy899 raised some concerns about some of the ingredients which made me think about trying a couple of not very scientific tests - I'm not sure if they mean much though.

BTW – Supercheap have 20% off all store stock tomorrow only (Saturday 3rd) for Supercheap club members.


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 10:58 am 
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Vehicle: MY13 SJ XT - White

Posts: 280
Location: Sydney NW
^^^ Great info guys. I'm sure this thread will be invaluable for anyone with a view of our cars longevity.


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:12 pm 
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Vehicle: MY13 SJ XT Premium

Posts: 382
Location: NSW Mid Nth Coast
I have added the MAP sensor O-ring size, part number & price to the earlier post here – see edit.


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 5:16 pm 
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Vehicle: MY13 XT

Posts: 396
Location: Sydney
subXT wrote:
Thanks. But the credit has to go to Danoz for trying it on his XT & posting the results. Easy_peasy899 raised some concerns about some of the ingredients which made me think about trying a couple of not very scientific tests - I'm not sure if they mean much though.

BTW – Supercheap have 20% off all store stock tomorrow only (Saturday 3rd) for Supercheap club members.



I think SubXTs tests are very important and thorough. A nice shiny valve top means nothing if the intake is being corroded away by the cleaning fluid. Next chance I get ill spray some on the outside of the intake and see what happens. In the meantime. Engine still as smooth as silk and power is great.


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 5:54 pm 
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I Say: Nowhere near as much as I used to!
Vehicle: Gone but not forgotten-MY08 XT

Posts: 16235
Location: Sydney, AUS
Great work gents - full marks! :)


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 Post subject: Re: Liqui Moly - Engine Decarb
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 9:58 pm 
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Vehicle: MY13 SJ XT Premium

Posts: 382
Location: NSW Mid Nth Coast
Thanks pete-mac. :)
Danoz wrote:
I think SubXTs tests are very important and thorough. ...
Thanks Danoz, but the one test I wanted to get right yesterday I come unstuck on. :x

I intended to spray 1/2 a can (75gms by weight) of Subaru SA459 into the inlet manifold via the MAP sensor hole, leave it stand for 5 minutes, then run the engine after the MAP sensor was put back in. I then wanted to do the same thing with the Liqui Moly 2733 but only put in the same amount as the SA459 (75gms by weight) & get a comparison between the two of how much rubbish came out of the exhaust.

A full can of Subaru SA459 without the lid weighed 216gm, the net contents is listed as 150gm, so the empty can without lid should weigh 66gm.
I sprayed in 1/2 the can of Subaru SA459 (reduced the total weight from 216gm down to 141gm). The engine took a while to start & when it started there was only a small amount of grey smoke that came out the exhaust.

A full can of Liqui Moly 2733 without the lid weighed 448gm, the net contents is listed as 366gm, so the empty can without lid should weigh 82gm.
When I tried the same test with the Liqui Moly 2733 I forgot to allow for the larger size tube which allows a lot more liquid to be sprayed for a given time compared to the much smaller tube on the SA459. So when I came to weigh the can I had already gone below the 373gm I intended to stop at which would have allowed 75gm of liquid to be sprayed into the inlet manifold. So unfortunately this wasn’t an accurate comparison.

However, I got similar results with the Liqui Moly 2733 that Danoz got. The engine took a fair while to start (longer than with the SA459) & when it started there was a lot of grey smoke that came out the exhaust that continued for a fairly long time with a strong overpowering smell. The smell was so strong it even went in through an open window that was a fair way around the side of the house from where the XT was parked & went through every room in the house. I wouldn’t recommend any more than 75gm of liquid being sprayed into the inlet manifold at a time, which doesn't take long with the larger tube supplied with the Liqui Moly - & only do this when your neighbours are away.

Danoz ... I got the Fumoto F108 oil drain valve fitted - you were right. :thumbs: I should have done this years ago when I was considering it.


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